원정 개요

Approach: Trekking from Darbang.

BC 17/04 4600m
C1 22/04 5850m
C2 27/04 6400m
C3 08/05 7200m
Smt 09/05 by Neuschmid, Diez, Sieveking, Lal Bahadur Tamang, Tashi Chhiring,
Karma Gyalzen at 12 noon; Salzmann and Mingmar Sherpa at 12:50 pm.

Team started from C3 at 8pm on 08/05. They had arrived from C2 at 3 pm and only had five hours to rest. They set off in good and calm weather with a few gusts of wind at 8 pm. Straightforward climb to the summit. There was still some fixed rope from Mingma G’s team who summited on 09/04. The Sherpas fixed some rope on the traverse which the team reached at around 6 am. The wind started at about 9am in the morning which made climbing more difficult Conditions were good but there was a huge serac at the top of the couloirs which seemed rather dangerous, however, the team managed it well. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3. Tashi Chhiring reached C3 at around 2:30 pm, Karma Gyalzen at 3:30 pm, Diez at 5 pm, Lal Bahadur Tamang and Mingmar at 9 pm, Salzmann at 9.45 pm, Neuschmid and Sieveking at 2 am.

On the descent Sieveking was very exhausted and Neuschmid and Sieveking found a tent about 200m above C3 where they stayed from about 11 pm to 1 am. Once Sieveking had recovered, they descended to C3.

On 10/05 Salzmann, Diez and Tashi Chhiring descended to C1 while Neuschmid, Sieveking, Bierling, Mingmar Sherpa, Lal Bahadur Tamang and Karma Gyalzen descended to C2. On 11/05 everyone back down at BC.

Other members:

Miesch reached C2 at 6400m on 23/04 during the second rotation. During the third acclimatisation rotation he turned back just above C1 due to health issues. He descended to BC on 27/04 and decided to abandon the expedition. He left BC on 01/05 and trekked out via Marpha.

Bierling reached C3 on 08/05, however, as she took very long from C2 to C3 and only arrived at C3 at 6 pm. She was very exhausted due to the high gusts of wind and the steep ascent to C3 that she felt she did not have enough energy to go for the summit. She stayed at C3 for two nights and descended with the summiters on 10/05.

Left BC on 13/05 trekking via French Pass and Marpha.

Fixed rope: 500m at the traverse.

Accidents: Diez 2nd grade frostbite on most fingers.

Oxygen:
Not Used: Salzmann, Diez, Tashi Chhiring, Mingmar and Karma Gyalzen
Used:
Neuschmid from C2 to top to C2
Sieveking from C2 to top to BC
Lal Bahadur from C3 to top to C3

Sherpas:
Lal Bahadur Tamang, Ramche-6, Rasuwa, 21/06/1983
Tashi Chhiring Sherpa, Khumjung, 08/05/1990
Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Phortse, Khumbu 23/04/1987
Mingmar Sherpa, Taskindu, Solu 24/11/1989