원정 개요

Report from Chan Chiao-Yu:

Approach: By helicopter

BC 03/05 4600m
C1 05/05 5850m
C2 07/05 6800m
C3 08/05 7400m
Smt 09/05 by Chan and Halung Dorchi Sherpa from Makalu at 1 pm.

Chan arrived at BC by helicopter from Pokhara after having attempted Annapurna 1 where she reached 7660m on 28/04. She was well acclimatised and did not need any rotation before her summit push. She and Halung Dorchi Sherpa left BC on 05/05 and stayed two nights at C1. On 07/05, they reached C2 and on 08/05 they reached C3.

Halung Dorchi and Chan left C3 at about 8 pm on 08/05. They moved together with the Kobler & Partner team and reached the summit at about 1 pm. They stayed for about 30 mins and descended to C3 where they arrived at around 9:30 pm.

On 10/05 they descended to BC. Left BC on 12/05 trekking to Marpha.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Halung Dorchi
Chan on the descent from summit to C3.

Chan was a client of 8K Expeditions on the SST permit.


Report from Danny Gordin:

Approach: Trekking from Darbang.

BC 22/04 4600m
C2 24/04 5850m
C2 25/04 6400m
HPt 25/04 6400m by Gordin.

Gordin had trouble sleeping at C2 as he had periodic breathing [issues]. He did not recover when he was back down at BC and decided that the climb was not for him this year. He abandoned the climb on 01/05. On 02/05 he ascended to his C2 to collect his gear and left BC by helicopter on 03/05. Left BC on 03/05 by helicopter.

Sherpas: None
Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


Report by Omri Margalit:

Approach: Trekking from Darbang.

BC 16/04 4600m
IC 18/04 5400m
C1 21/04 5850m
C2 22/04 6400m
HPt 08/05 7050m by Margalit

During the second rotation Margalit and Nave reached an altitude of about 6800m. They wanted to reach C3 during this rotation, but they were too tired to go any further. They had no Sherpa support and were carrying heavy bags (up to 25kg). They joined the summit push of all the other expeditions on Dhaulagiri leaving BC on 06/05 to reach C1 and on 07/05 to reach C1. Nave turned back at about 6700m as the climb was too exhausting. He descended to C2 where he stayed the night.

Margalit carried on towards C2, but decided to turn back at about 7050m. He thought he had taken too long towards C3, and when he met the Norwegian climber Kristin Harila and her Sherpa team who told him that it was another 2 hours to C3 he decided to turn back at around 4 pm. He descended to C2 where he arrived at 6 pm.

Both Nave and Margalit descended to C2 on 09/05 and left BC by heli to Kathmandu.

Climb abandoned on 08/05 due to exhaustion/slow movement

Sherpas: None
Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


Report from Yachiyo Suzuki:

Approach: Heli to Italian BC

BC 24/04 4600m
C1 26/04 5850m
C2 29/04 6400m
C3 08/05 7200m
HPt 08/05 7200m by Suzuki, Dawa Sherpa.

Suzuki and Dawa Sherpa started their summit push on 06/05 from BC. The days to C3 where quite windy and it was hard to move. They reached C3 on 08/05 at 6pm and as Suzuki was very tired from reaching C3 she decided not to go for the summit. She was contemplating to try the following day, but high winds were forecast. They descended to C2 on 09/05 and to BC on 10/05. Left BC on1 2/05 by helicopter.

Climb abandoned on 09/05 due to exhaustion, bad weather forecast.

Sherpas: Dawa (summited with Mingma G on 11/04)
Oxygen: Taken and used from C2 to HPt to C2 by Suzuki.


Report from Kristin Harila:

BC 03/05 4600m by heli from Pokhara
C2 04/05 6800m
C3 07/05 7400m
Smt 08/05 by Harila, Pasdawa, Mingma, Dawa (uncle of Lhakpa who owns of 8K)
at 11 am.

Harila arrived by helicopter from Pokhara after summiting Annapurna 1 on 28/04. She was sick the first day at BC and headed to C2 on 04/05. She stayed at C2 for two nights and went to C3 on 07/05.

Team left C3 at 9 pm on 07/05. They had to break trail and pull out the ropes fixed by Mingma Gyalje on 09/04. It was a difficult ascent due to the snowy conditions.

Team stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes and descended to C2 where they arrived at 6 pm. They descended to BC on 09/05 and left by helicopter to Kathmandu the same day.

On 10/05 they took a helicopter to a village near Kangchenjunga BC. Stayed the night and took a helicopter to Kangchenjunga BC on 11/05.

Oxygen: From C3 to top to C2 by all.