원정 개요

Approach: Flew to Pokhara on 14 March, Heli to BC.

BC 16/03 First group
31/03 Last group
C1 19/03 5700m
C2 22/03 6200m lower camp (established on 21/03)
C2 07/04 6450m upper camp (camp was used for summit push)
C3 08/04 7300m
Smt 09/04 by 10 climbers + 12 Sherpas

Summit push started from C3 at the midnight of 08 April. The first lot of five members and Sherpas reached summit at 9:30 am. By 12 pm rest of the members and Sherpas reached the summit. Mingma Gyalje stayed on summit for about two and half hour, the rest between 10 to 15 minutes each.

Team left BC on 10/04 by heli to Pokhara.

Fixed rope: the team fixed rope all way up.

Oxygen: 1 without (Nallavelli) and rest used from C2; by Sherpas from C3.

Liu Mihe stopped at 6200m due to weakness.


Notes from Tracee Metcalfe:

9:30 am
Dong
Ishikawa
Metcalfe
Warner
Kili Pemba
Jit Bahadur
Pemba Tenzing
Mingma Gyalje

10.30 am
Aasvang
Thundu Sherpa

Remaining members and Sherpa summited at 12 noon.

Team set out at 11 pm on 08/04. Tam did not have enough rope to fix the long traverse below the summit. 1/2 of our team worked together using the same piece of rope in a leap-frog style, the second 1/2 did not use a rope there. It was a little challenge with rocks and a cornice to get to the summit plateau. After summiting, team descended, some to C3, C2 or BC.