원정 개요

Report from Alessandra Pepper:

BC 29/03 4200m
C2 03/04 5044m
C2 04/04 5585m
C3 19/04 6425m
C4 27/04 6800m
Smt 28/04 by Pepper and Dawa Tenzing at 15:57 pm.

Team left C4 at 23:30 on 27/04, summited at 15:57 on 28/04, stayed 10 minutes, the descended to C4 at 9:30 pm. Left BC on 30/04.

Oxygen: Pepper used from 7800m and back to C2, Dawa Tenzing from C4 and back to C4.

Jerry from Mongolia did not make the summit. Dawa and Pepper turned him around 200-300m below due to the snowstorm.


Report from Tri-Fish Chan:

BC 11/04 4200m
C1 -- 5080m
C2 12/04 5560m (stayed 2 nights)
C3 19/04 6400m (Allie Pepper, Tri-Fish with Sherpa)
C4 27/04 6800m
HPt 28/04 7660m by Chan
Smt 28/04 by Dawa (AD) Sherpa, Allie Pepper

Chan, Dawa Sherpa, Pepper and her Dawa [Tenzing] Sherpa left C4 at 11:30 pm on 27/04. Weather was good, but at around 1:30 pm the weather turned for the worse. Clouds came in and it started to snow. Winds came up and they ended up in a whiteout. When they reached 7660m at around 1 pm, Chan decided to turn back and started using bottled oxygen. Allie Pepper and her Sherpa were already ahead. Dawa (AD) Sherpa said he would go up a bit with a Mongolian member of the 8K Expedition and return, however, he never did. When Grace Teng came down from the summit and met Chan at around 2 pm, they descended together to C4 where they arrived at 7 pm. AD Sherpa summited and returned to C4 at 10 pm. Allie Pepper and her Sherpa summited and returned to C4 at 9:30 pm. On 29/04 Chan descended to BC.

Sherpa:
Dawa (AD) Sherpa, Khumbu, (Everest/Lhotse/Manaslu) 24 years old

Oxygen: Taken and used from HPt to C4 by Chan.

Left BC on 30/04 by helicopter to Dana and jeep to Tatopani. From there to Pokhara. On 03/05 Chan together with Kristin Harila took a helicopter to Dhaulagiri BC to attempt Dhaulagiri.


Report from Kristin Harila:

BC 06/04 4200m by heli from Kathmandu
C1 11/04 5080m
C2 12/04 5560m
C3 25/04 6500m
C4 27/04 6800m
Smt 28/04 by Harila, Pasdawa, Lhakpa Thinduk, Lhakpa [Nurbu] at 11.25 am.

First attempt was to reach the summit on 20/04. Team reached C2 on 16/04 and descended back to BC on 18/04 as the route was not fixed. They stayed at BC until 23/04 and left for C2 on 24/04. They took 11 hours from C2 to C3 as there was a lot of snow. C3 was at a steep section right under a serac which was moving during the night. Harila thought it was quite a dangerous place, but for some reason they spent two nights at C3. According to Harila it was due to bad planning.

Pasdawa and Lhakpa Thinduk helped the rope-fixing team and spent 27/04 above C4 working. They returned to C4 in the evening, rested for a few hours and left together with Lhakpa and Harila at 9 pm. On the summit push, the team was still fixing rope, so it was slow progress.

On the way down, Harila met Josette Valloton who descended with them to C4. They reached C4 at 4 pm, just before the bad weather moved in. In the morning of 29/04, they heard that Tim Bogdanov and Giampolo Corona were missing. Both climbers contracted serious frostbite on hands and feet.

On 29/04 team descended to BC.

Oxygen: C4 to summit to C2 by all.

Left BC on 30/04 by helicopter to Tatopani and 01/05 to Pokhara. They stayed in Pokhara until 03/05 and took a helicopter to Dhaulagiri BC. Harila had eaten something bad for breakfast and felt already sick when she left Pokhara.