원정 개요

Report from Josette Valloton:

BC 29/03 4200m (by heli from Ktmdu)
C1 03/04 5000m
C2 05/04 5500m
C3 26/04 6500m
C4 27/04 6800m
HPt 28/04 7800m by Valloton

Valloton left C4 at 9:30 pm on 27/04. She left with everyone of SST and reached 7800m at 11 am. She felt too tired to carry on. Especially as she was alone and was not using bottled oxygen. She descended to C4 where she arrived at 5 pm. On 29/04 she descended to BC.

Climb abandoned on 28/04 due to too hard without O2 and Sherpa. Left BC on 30/04 by heli to Tatopani, bus to Ktmdu.


Report from Hans Wenzl:

BC 29/03
C1 02/04 5000m
C2 05/04 5540m
C3 26/04 6200m
C4 27/04 6950m
Smt 28/04 by Wenzl at 12:45 pm.

Summiters left C4 at 1:30 am. Wenzl summited at 12:45 pm, stayed 15 min. the Weather was good until about 2:00 pm; from 16:00 there was a thunderstorm and a snowstorm. Left BC on 29/04.


Report from Grace Tseng:

BC 25/03 4200m
C1 03/04 5000m
C2 05/04 5700m
C3 16/04 6200m (lower C2)
C4 27/04 6500m
Smt 28/04 by Tseng, Nima, Mingma Dorji Tamang at 12:30 pm.

Summit team left C4 at 8:30 pm. The Sherpa team had fixed about 1200m of rope. Many people on the route. They stayed about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 6:30 pm. On 29/04 all back to BC. Left BC on 30/04 by heli.

After the expedition, the team stayed in Pokhara until 07/05 and then flew to Makalu BC to climb Makalu.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Nima and Mingma Dorji.


Report from Moeses Fiamoncini (SST Facebook page):

Posted by @moesesfiamoncini: Post 1 - Annapurna 2022 - End of Expedition (3 May)

Many articles about the world of mountaineering describe Annapurna and K2 as the most dangerous mountains in the world. Each climber will have their own story with them. I did K2 without oxygen on my first attempt and I just tried Annapurna for the second time, unsuccessful. Or maybe I should say: successfully because I came back alive.

When I was just two hours ago from the peak, 7900 meters away, I was caught by the bad altitude and began to feel mental confusion, silliness and difficulty to walk, as well as nose bleeding. It was 9 o'clock in the morning. Waited two hours sitting, although I knew the symptoms wouldn't go away. The day was beautiful, sunny, little windy. And the top was there...so close.

When that happens, there are two alternatives: you either go down and recover quickly, or you keep climbing and take the risks. But the decision to come down is harder than climbing any mountain. While I was there, sitting in my illusion that my symptoms could just disappear, two mountaineers who also didn't take oxygen passed me and encouraged me to keep climbing. It was painful, but I took all my frustration out and decided to get down.

Two days later, coming down in bad weather, made it to base camp for the night. The next morning, 30/04 in Nepal, the rescue helicopter was in search of the two mountaineers who passed by me while I was sitting there. After reaching the top they had trouble getting back to Field 4 due to a 60 mph winds storm and couldn't find their sheds. Both suffered severe effects of frosbite. But I understand their decision to keep climbing, I understand like no one else! Both are excellent mountaineers with extensive experience. I choose to come back, but I don't judge them.

What we lacked, who don't use oxygen, was aclimatization and when it comes to Annapurna and aclimatization, it's a long story involving geography and the fearless climate of this mountain. In a next post I will explain about it.

Heartfelt thanks to everyone who prayed for me. Hugs!

@thenorthfacebr