원정 개요

From Maksim Davydik Instagram account:

Our tents scattered out on the steep slopes of camp 1 at Ama Dublam like little boats in a raging storm. An altitude of 5860 meters. There are no even plots, and the mere movement around the camp is like lasagna on slippery frozen rocks. There is no water, we were drowning from the snow. Going to the bathroom in order not to spoil the snow (in our case, snow equals drinking water) near someone else's tent is impossible, so we had to use... empty plastic bottles . At night, a severe storm hit and the temperature in the tent dropped to minus 20. One of the coldest nights I've ever had. There are 1000 meters left to the top, we make a jump up to 6000, but further it is a technically difficult part, which is impossible to pass in the current weather conditions. The ropes are frozen, visibility is zero, the stones are slippery, wind and snow blow into the face. So the difficult decision was made to go down to base camp since camp 1 is not a safe place to stay for long. In order to get to camp 1, much more to get off it, I had to go through a dangerous technical section of steep rocks on the overrails. The dulphir descent caused a lot of problems because the ropes were covered with a thick skin of ice, which blocked the normal functioning of my device (descender). I had to peel the ice with my bare hands by taking off my gloves (they were wet and slippery). And here's the picture: at the height of 5600 meters on a steep wall, I with a backpack of more than 20 kg trying to make a slippery concession to clear the ice rope and a hoarse descent. The ice deliberately collapsed with a rope, the hands drenched in blood on adrenaline tear off the ice shell, a heavy backpack disrupts balance, shoulders are stiff, the icy wind blows in the face and throws snow... And oxygen drops to 65... Well, how do you spend May holidays?