원정 개요

The Sherpa rope-fixing team members were supplied by 8K Expeditions and summited on 2 Apr.


Report from Tri-Fish Chan:

Approach: Gokyo->Pangboche->BC

BC 28/03 4530m
C1 30/03 5700m
C2 04/04 6100m
Smt 05/04 by Chan and Chhiring Namgyal Sherpa at 10:30 am.

After the summit descened to C2 and on 06/04 down to BC.

Left BC on 07/04 by helicopter back to Kathmandu. On 11/04 Chan took a helicopter to Annapurna 1 BC.

Sherpa:
Chhiring Namgyal Sherpa, Solukhumbu, 26 years old


Garth Miller and Prem Magar were clients of SST on 8K Expeditions permit.

Aldo Guerrero and his client Maarten de Klerk approached via Tengboche to Island Peak to Ama Dablam BC with plans to continue on to Baruntse after their AMAD climb.

Jannicke Dahl and Thomas Lone suffered from infections and bad weather near the end of April. Dahl was infected at BC and did not attempt to climb. Lone attempted to climb alone, but was stricken at C2 after climbing from BC in one day. He made a summit attempt the next day, but was too weak to go beyond the C3 site.


Report from Dhal's Instagram page:

There was no Ama Dablam on me.

In base camp I got an infection, which is very difficult to get rid of at this altitude. The body was completely exhausted and after spending 4.5 hours on a 3-hour trip to base camp, we had no doubts. A top push for me would be indefensible.

Normally we would have gone down to a lower village to rest and let our bodies gather strength to recover. But this time the weather was against us. The weather forecast threatened strong winds, whiteout and extreme amounts of snow 3 days after arriving at base camp. We had to reverse our entire plan and make a risky choice:

Cancel the summit or send Thomas alone solo?

Thomas wanted to try! And at 3:00 a.m. that night, he got up to hit the summit. He had bad time and had to skip High camp + Camp 1 and go all the way to camp 2 in one stage. That means heavy climbing up to 1300 meters in height and people in the base camp shook their heads when he confidently threw his 30 kg rucksack on his shoulders and started his ambitious journey towards the top.

Already 12 hours later he reached C2! And proved again that he is at the top of climbers.

Unfortunately, he developed a fever overnight, with symptoms similar to what I had. He therefore spent a day in C2 before attempting the summit, but after spending 4.5 hours up to C3 he realized that his body was too weak and that something was wrong. He was alone on the mountain and made the mature choice to turn around.

I heard on the walkie-talkie that he was really sick and felt my stomach tighten. I therefore packed my daypack and climbed 1000m to meet him, follow him down to base camp and carry the 30 kg bag for him. After 9 hours we finally met on the mountain, in fog and snow. Tears welled up in both of our eyes and we began the descent together. Thomas was mentally fit, but I have never seen such a feverish and exhausted body before. It cut my heart every time we passed a possible tent site and Thomas pointed to the ground. I saw how much pain he was in but he continued to push down. We both know being sick at altitude is dangerous. 15 hours after I left base camp we were finally safely down again.


Report from Vitaliy Musiyenko:

BC 18/04 4700m
C1 19/04 5800m
C2 20/04 6000m
Smt 21/04 by Musiyenko and Mestre at 12:18 pm.

Left C2 at 5:45 am, summited at 12:18 pm, stayed about 1 hour on summit, then descended to C2. Climb went well and descent went well. Returned to camp in about a 10-hour round trip (from C2 to summit and back). No Sherpas, no oxygen.

"We used Ama Dablam as acclimatization for Nuptse, so we actually spent one more night at C2 and on the following day (04/23) hiked down and all the way back to Chhukung.