원정 개요

Approach: Bus to Dhangdi, Jeep via Lama Bagar to Makarighat, trekked onward Kandeswari, Ghajir, Chhetti, open camp at 3920m.

Base camp put up and left climbing gears on 19 Nov at 4380m near the stream below the S Face of Kapchuli rocky field with patches of grass. Then went down to the open camp and slept there. That night Lieber left the camp.

BC slept on 20 Nov.

01 Dec went down to Chhetti spent night there.

02 Dec climbed up to BC. Snow falling for about a week.

09 Dec hiked up to 4873m and left gears there and back to BC.

20 Dec slept 4873m.

21 Dec summit push to camp at 5297m.

22 Dec camp at 5663m slept there.

Summited South Peak of Kapchuli (6050m). Continued up to the South Ridge 6000m col between main peak and the sub-peak slept there. Next day 23 Dec started climbing at around 3:30 am and got to the summit between 4-4:30 pm. Weather was cloudy and some wind at the beginning it was clear sky. Stayed on summit for about 5 minutes. There is picture of going toward the summit, but no picture of summit due to dead battery. Back to col camp around 9 pm and slept there. Next day went down to BC.

Left BC on 25 Dec.

Route: S Face via S Ridge from the south peak side on south side.