원정 개요

Approach: Flew to Juphal via Nepalgunj, trekked to Dunai->Chepka->Jharana->Ringmo, Phoksumdo Khola camp->Pass Camp->Shey Gompa->Bhijeri->Pho->Nyimgma->Pung Kharka

BC 27/09 5150m (below the south side rock face)
HC 05/10 5800m (above the south side rock face)
Smt 09/10 by Baek, Jung, Joung and Ongchhu Sherpa
Smt 10/10 by Koo, Lim, Eom, Lee and Ongchhu Sherpa.

Fixed rope: From BC to High Camp (200m) and above High Camp (140m, total 340m)

Left BC on 13 October.

Route: SW Ridge via southern snow wall.

Records: 1st ascent.

Other peaks: East peak summited on 10 October by Koo alone.

The first team left HC at 4 am on 9 October and reached summit at 9:40 am. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes and returned HC at about noon, continued to BC where they arrived at 3:30 pm. Strong wind at summit time, otherwise good weather with clear skies.

The second team left HC at 4 am on 10 October and got to the summit at 9:10 am. They stayed on the summit for 20 minutes, back to HC around noon, then to BC where they arrived at 5 pm. Strong wind at summit.

The team climbed the rock face east of the BC and put up the HC at 5800m little west of the rock face top of the wall, then traversed about 400m west. Climbed the snow/ice wall (70°) about 200m, then walked easy uphill SW Ridge to the summit.

ROH remained at the BC.