원정 개요

TBC at Annapurna BC
BC at glacier
C1 in icefall
C2 at East Face bottom, top of Icefall
C3 on East Face middle
C4 at west side of SE Ridge.

Porters refused to go beyond TBC so members had to ferry all loads to BC. Then after arrived BC, saw slab avalanche came down their proposed route around proposed C1 so took route different from that originally planned and used same route as Italians 11-12 years ago. C4 made just over SE Ridge and reached by 3 members on 18 Dec who slept there and down on 19th while 2 other members arrived C4, dump loads and also descended. Now snowfall started 21st and finished 25th. 27th 4 members up from ABC to C2, 4 then on next day to C3 to drop loads and sleep C2. 29th 2 members arrived C3 and sleep there and 30th towards C4 but one man's crampons broke and returned to C3. 1st Jan they reach C4 and slept there. 2nd down to ABC because had found C4 tent broken, very strong wind and very cold. Climb finished now: had planned this summit bid of 2 or 3 Jan to be the only summit bid. Now all members very tired and before coming to Nepal had planned summit attacks between 31 Dec and 5 Jan. No climbers above C4. Route technically difficult on mixed rock, snow and ice 70-80 degrees face. On W Face snow crust and snow mushrooms. SE Ridge knife-edged.

* At C4 18 Dec - Chung, Lee, Jang;
19 Dec - Om and Hwang;
1 Jan - Jang and Lee

On West Face snow crust and snow mushroom; SE Ridge knife edge.