원정 개요

BC 08/09 4700m
C1 17/09 5700m
C2 18/09 6400m
C3 19/09 6800m
C4 26/09 7500m

F-Smt 27/09 by Manvi, Boogaard, Pemba Nurbu and Dawa Tenzing Sherpa at 9 am.

T-Smt 27/09 by Mingma Gyalje (9:38 am); others except fore-smtrs at 10 am;
Hari, Tamting Sherpa and Furtemba Sherpa at 1:14 pm (Hari was
climbing without supplemental oxygen).

The fore-summit team had left C4 together with the true summit team, but were ahead and when Mingma Gyalje arrived at the fore-summit they were already on their way down and did not want to attempt the true summit.

True summit and fore-summit teams left C4 at 3 am. They reached the fore-summit at about 8:50 am. Mingma Gyalje tried to find the route at first on the main ridge and climbed up for about 3 metres; however, he thought it was too unstable, but saw that it would be possible on the north side. He climbed back to the fore-summit and climbed down on the N Face for about 10 metres and then traversed for about 15 metres and then climbed towards the true summit which was another 35m up. The snow was hip-deep in places and he went straight up towards the summit and reached it at 9:38 am. He saw to his left a rock which was good for an anchor as the snow was quite loose and it would have been difficult to fix it. So, he told the other Sherpas who were still down with the clients to veer to the left and go via the rock and put a piton in the rock. They fixed about 62m from the fore-summit to the true summit.

They spent about one hour on the summit and descended to BC (apart from Liu) where they arrived at 9:30 pm. They left the fixed rope for other teams to use.

The team did not have the drone pictures in advance and the drone only flew the day the team climbed to the summit.

Fixed rope: 62m from fore-summit to true summit.

Oxygen:
Rzucidlo, Manavi, Boogaard, Liu, Kedev from C3 to summit to C3
Gottlieb from 7600m to summit to 7600m
All Sherpas and Wheatley from C4 to summit to C4
Hari Mix without O2.