원정 개요

Expedition divided into two teams:

North Face: Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell
East Face: Sam Hennessey and Seth Timpano

North Face team to Taplejung by jeep; walked for 5 days from Ranipur up through Gyabla and Ghunsa, then to Base Camp.

East Face team went from Ranipur to Tseram. Their BC was 5000m. Left Kathmandu early. (No report from East Face team).


North Face team report:

Route: Plan was North Face and descend same way.

BC 25 Sep 4700m
Biv 1 08 Oct 5200m
Biv 2 09 Oct 5800m

Returned to BC for 2 days 10-11 Oct.
12 Oct at 4 am climbed to 5800m Biv 2.
13 Oct at 5 am climbed to 6800m Biv 3
14 Oct at 5 am climbed to 7200m (at 5 pm Biv 4 there).
15 Oct at 9 am descended back to BC.

Large storm on 16 Oct deposited 1 meter of snow on the BC and and 2 meters of snow high on the mountain. We waited in BC for 5 days with continuous storms.

On 20 Oct at 7 am started breaking the trail again up to 5600m and descended back to BC at around 7 pm. Too much avalanche concern and was difficult in the deep snow and decided to end the trip at that point.

Stayed at BC for a couple of days, arranged pack animals, etc. to get stuff out.

High point at 7200m on 14 Oct. Bivvy there, and returned to BC next morning.
Climb abandoned on 20 Oct due to storms, bad weather.

Details of the climb: Alpine style attempt.

The Russian climb of 2004 all the fixed lines and gears – only a couple of meters of rope was visible. A lot of its gone. The lower buttress has a lot of pitons. We removed some trash from other climbs 5200m. Mountain was fairly clean.

We are planning to be back within 1-2 years.

Back to BC on 20 Oct.

Left BC on 26 Oct, walked back to Ghunsa.

Other East Face team were a couple of days ahead out of Tserum/Ranipur.