원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Pillar
C4 on Pillar at its top
High point SE Ridge just below South Summit.

Icefall very broken and route difficult to make, which was made by this expedition and Japanese. Japanese insisted all wait to climb till 1 Dec so Koreans waited. C3 on Pillar took 3 days cutting ice to make platform for 2 tents. 1st summit attack 14th Dec at 10 mins past midnight by Park Young-Seok, Han, Bir Bahadur Tamang & Sonam Tshering Sherpa - went up face and over to S Col route at 8100m. Only 2 arrived here; Sonam Tshering and Han had turned back at 7950m because in no condition (very tired and headache); Sonam and Han very tired and oxygen not working well. Park and Bir Bahadur went on up normal route and just below S Summit, 8700m and from 8100m Park not using oxygen. Park's Russian system all iced up and at 8700m Bir Bahadur's French oxygen finished and Bir Bahadur says he goes down (his oxygen finished, he very cold and wind strong) so Park also goes down because solo climb dangerous. Park and Bir Bahadur to C2 same day.

2nd summit attack by Lee Min-Ho and Bae Kyung-Ho from C4 at 3:00 am (better time than midnight because at 1:00 am moonshine) and reached 8300m in cloudy weather and strong wind: cloud means not able to see route; returned C4 9:00 am (this their 1st climb in Himalaya). Now climb finished; others in "no condition," very tired from route making, much falling rock.


Sarakin, Spring 1992 by Won-Woo Nam

Last winter Mt. Everest Expedition team of the Dong Kuk University Alpine Club left Seoul on Nov 3, 1991. 10 members with the leader Kwang-Jin Kim arrived at BC on Nov 15. They set up C1 at the bottom of south-west wall on Dec 2, C3 at the height of 7200m on Dec 9 and C4 at the height of 7200m on Dec 9 and C4 at the height of 7900m.

The first assault team of four members including two Sherpas left from C4 on Dec 14, 00:20 am. After one hour, one member and one Sherpa retreated to the C4. Climbing leader and one Sherpa advanced to the south-east ridge, they found one dead body at 8400m. They arrived at the bottom of south peak on the south-east ridge. However, Bibi Tamang refused advancing at that point and climbing leader gave up climbing up the summit. The second assault team of two members tried to climb up the summit. But, they also gave up climbing due to the strong winds.