원정 개요

C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col
High point just below South Summit.

After C3 established bad weather. 3 times forced abandonment of climbing to col: wind and clouds. Finally on 11th Dec 4 Sherpas including Ang Rita carried up loads, 2 to Col (Ang Rita and Ang Jangbu) and other 2 an hour below col.

On 21st Van Snick, Ang Rita and Ang Lhakpa Dorje (Ang Lhakpa of Everest 1985 spring summit) pitched camp at col. Left C3 8:30 and arrived 15:30. At midnight in bright moonlight left C4 for summit attempt by all three despite Ang Lhakpa's having been ill in evening twice. Van Snick and Ang Lhakpa used oxygen resting before start of climb on 21st night and during the climb above col Ang Rita carried full bottle for Van Snick. Was no wind, snow conditions very good. Ang Lhakpa had problem mask clogging with ice. 8 am arrived just below S Summit at 8700m and stopped to change Van Snick's oxygen bottle and drink tea. Ang Lhakpa fell on his back and slipped 8m, did not move, Ang Rita went to him and gave oxygen while Ang Lhakpa remained unconscious briefly then came around. Ang Rita spoke to him but Ang Lhakpa's speech confused. All three descended with Ang Lhakpa's walking roped between other 2; arrived at C4 9:30 am, rested 1 hrs, then Ang Lhakpa semi-conscious. Very strong wind and impossible to descend and had to return to tent almost immediately after they had started to descend; gave Ang Lhakpa more oxygen. By 4:00 pm it was clear descent impossible that day as wind stronger still. At night leg spasms; doctor thinks had cerebral thrombosis. At midnight Ang Lhakpa's oxygen empty and Van Snick stopped resting on oxygen and gave his to Ang Lhakpa. 2 am Ang Rita went out and found another bottle outside tent and Ang Lhakpa got new oxygen bottle. Ang Lhakpa found to be dead at 7 am while others trying to get radio contact with lower camps to ask 3 Sherpas come up to help. Still strong wind at col but on face not so bad and Ang Rita and Van Snick could descend and went to BC same day. Now decided Everest climb finished: exhausted and ill after 6 weeks on mountain, and strongest climbers, Ang Rita and Van Snick not in top condition. Soon afterwards came big storm which destroyed higher camps. No attempt to return to col for body.

If Van Snick and Ang Rita had gone to summit, would have gotten there at about 10:00 am and perhaps would not have survived descent.

Everest effort by Belgians failed - collapsed after 1st bid and Xmas at BC:
1. No strong leadership - Detienne got sick and went to KTM; deputy leader Vreugde interest in scientific research for one month and not leadership; climbing leader Cornellissen not strong personality, too mild; Sirdar Ang Phurba's wife seriously ill and he left BC.
2. Psychological problem of first experience with winter's severe weather - Belgians not prepared for this
3. "Low altitude" sickness - Detienne would have died without use of 3 bottles of oxygen at and below BC.
4. Came too early in season - now is time to be mounting ascent, not Nov
5. Death (in this case Lhakpa Dorje's) is problem for young climbers and Tettelin, who is strong, took death very hard.
6. Few strong climbers: Miss Baeyeons (sick), Van Snick and Tettelin only.

Much money spent on expedition including 3 generators at BC for electric lights, 7 kitchen staff at BC, 2 Belgians at BC only for food and equipment, etc.


Detienne - 24 Dec 88

22nd early 1:00 am 3 start from S Col - 8:00 am reached just below S Col. Lhakpa Dorje sickness, lost control and collapsed in snow. Rudy and Ang Rita brought to South Col tent and gave higher flow of oxygen. Big snow and wind storm, stayed in col with sick man now in coma in late afternoon - 7:00 am died. Rudy and Ang Rita to BC late evening, leaving Lhakpa Dorje at Col; want to bring him down but winds preventing this.

Everest cancelled but 1 Belgian and 2 Poles try Lhotse. Stayed 10-14 days,
others leaving BC 23rd not so well; all others 27th leave BC. In KTM 31st.

On 22 Dec they started at 1 am from South Col toward the summit. At 8 am they reached just below 8700m. Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje collapsed to unconsciousness. Ang Rita and Rudy brought Sherpa to South Col. They put him on oxygen. That whole afternoon Sherpa was in coma. At early morning on 23rd Dec (7am) he died. In South Col there were no other member except summit party.

On 22nd due to very bad weather (storm, windy, snowfall) Ang Rita and Rudy cannot bring down Sherpa body.

After Lhakpa death two climbers left South Col and in the late afternoon, they reached base camp. It was not possible for them to bring down the dead body of Lhakpa due to exhaustion and bad weather.

Sherpa's are going to try to bring down the body if weather permits.

Everest expedition decided to abandon their bid due to this accident, but Lhotse bid be continued with Belgian lady climber.