원정 개요

Approach: bus to Thulo Bhotang (1850m), then by foot to Brongdo (2700m), Nasimpati (3700m), Panch Pokhari (4100m), a place close to Tin Pokhari (3800m) and Base Camp. The last place where there are houses is Panch Pokhari.

BC 05/10 4200m
ABC 08/10 4900m
Biv1 24/10 5700m
Biv2 25/10 6100m
Smt 25/10 by Mikel Zabalza, Iker Madoz, Mikel Inoriza at 4 pm.

Acclimatization on Kanshurm (or Linsin/Lingshing Himal) (east of URKM, 6074m) by the NE to E Ridge. An unclimbed peak officially (not listed in the Ministry's list).

From Oct 14 to 16, the 6 members reached a high point of 5950m; crew was divided into 2 teams of 3 members, following each other by a day (first wave high point on 15 Oct, second on 16 Oct).

“We notice a beautiful ridge that comes out of the same hill of the West Ridge towards the Urkinmang Peak (6187m) and that is full of gendarmes and secondary peaks. To acclimatize we go to the east edge of this ridge and ascend to one of its tips (5950m). For this we bivouac at 5300m and 5600m, respectively. Beautiful ridge in which we find some rock steps up to 5º. Then as soon as we finished our acclimatization, an unusual period of bad weather entered that had us standing for more than a week. 5 consecutive days of rains at the base that left almost a meter and a half of snow on the glacier put us on the ropes.”

Mikel Zabalza, Iker Madoz, Mikel Inoriza climbed the S Face, while Ruben San Martín, Javi Guzman and Ander Zabalza tried the SW Face. Both teams shared the approach to the 5700m bivouac.

Schedule:

23/10: from BC to ABC.

24/10: up the WSW glacier, bivy at 5700m.

25/10: For both Mikel and Iker, summit by the S Face (850m/55 to 65° slope in snow and ice), descent down to a bivy at 6100m of the WSW glacier, reached at 7:30 pm.

Meanwhile, Ruben, Javi and Ander tried without success an other line on the peak's SW Face up to 6100m and came back down to BC on same day.

26/10: Summit trio back down to BC.

Route generally much covered with snow, involving hard trail breaking. Up and down by the same route, when intended first to go down by the classic W Ridge route.

Left BC on 30/10.

Leader Mikel Zabalza had tried the mountain entering from the north (Langtang Valley) in 1992.