원정 개요

BC 18/09 4650m
C1 20/09 5800m (300m above normal C1)
C2 21/09 6200m
C3 22/09 7100m
Smt 01/10 by Cuenca at 6 am (Sirbaz Khan a bit earlier).

After first rotation Cuenca stayed at BC for three days and then started her summit push on 27/09 and went straight to C2. She was following the fixing team. There was a lot of snow and they did not make it all the way to C3 on 28/09. She set up a tent at 6700m where they spent the night. On 29/09 she spent the night at C3 at 7100m. On the evening of 29/09 Cuenca left C3 behind the fixing team who left at 10 pm. She was with Sirbaz Khan from Pakistan; they left C3 at 2 am on 30/09. They climbed for about 100m and turned back as there was too much snow, and the avalanche danger was too high. Everyone turned back to C3 that night.

The fixing team left C3 at 1:30 pm on 30/09 to fix the rope to the summit where they arrived at 5 am.

On 30/09 Khan and Cuenca left C3 at about 7 pm. A lot of snow. When she reached the bottom of the couloir at 4 am, there was heavy congestion and she had to wait and had a snooze for about half an hour. She felt strong again after her power nap and reached the summit at 6 am. She spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C3 where she had a break. They continued to C2 where they arrived at 5 pm. On 02/10 to BC.

Cuenca left BC on 04/10 to Marpha.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.