원정 개요

Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Sophie Lavaud (Switzerland)

Appr: Heli from Tatopani to Italian BC
Camps: BC(14/09,4700m),ABC(18/09,5400m),C1(23/09,5700m),C2(24/09,6400m),
C3(30/09,7250m),Smt(01/10)
Left: 05/10 to Marpha
Hired: 1
Term: Success at 7:40 am by Lavaud and Dawa Sangay Sherpa.

Lavaud and Dawa Sangay were at C2, which they put at 6700m for the summit push on 29/09. They heard that the fixing team were going to the summit, so they decided to move to C3 for a summit push on 30/09. They left C2 at noon and reached C3 at 5 pm. They rested for two hours and started their summit push at 7 pm. Conditions were difficult due to a lot of snow.

The fixing team had taken the first corridor which ended up directly at the summit. It was possible this year as there was so much snow. They stayed about 30 mins on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at around 7 pm.

Also summiting on 01/10: Cheol-Hee Cho, Alvarez Chavez, Bonalumi, Camandona (no oxygen), Bogdanov, Kowalewski (no oxygen), Watanabe, Picco (no oxygen), Jing He (no oxygen), Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (with Pioneer Adv).

Oxygen: Used from C3 to top to C3 by Lavaud and Dawa Sangay

Sherpa: Dawa Sangay (Makalu-Barun)


Marco Camandona (Italy)
Pietro Picco (Italy)

Appr: Trekked from Marpha to BC
Camps: BC(14/09,4650m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(23/09,6400m),C3(30/09,7250m),Smt(01/10)
Left: 03/10
Hired: 0
Term: Success at 8 am by Camandona and Picco.

Started from C2 on 30/09 at 10 am. Reached C3 at 4 pm, where they rested for 5 hours, without tent, or sleeping bag. At 11 pm started for summit from C3. At 8 am on summit and stayed on summit for 1 hour. Back to BC at 8 pm the same day.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used


Cheol-Hee Cho (S Korea)
Sang-Kyu Byun (S Korea)

Appr: Pokhara to Tatopani by Jeep, from Tatopani to BC by heli
Camps: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6300m),Smt(01/10)
Left: 03/10
Hired: 1
Term: Success at 5:50 am by Cho and Pechhumbe Sherpa.

Cho started from C2 for the summit at 2:30 pm on 30/09. On the summit on 01/10 at 5:50 am. Stayed on summit for 20 minutes. Good view, nice weather, very cold. Down to C2 at 11 am.

Sang-Kyu Byun did not go higher than BC because he felt unwell. Both members back to KTM on 03/10.

Oxygen: Used from C2 to summit and down to C2 by Cho and Sherpa.


David Klein (Hungary)
Szilard Suhajda (Hungary)

Appr: Chandrakot->Hile->Ghorepani->Tatopani->Marpha by Jeep, trekked Marpha to BC
Camps: BC(14/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5814m),C2(22/09,6450m),C2.5(23/09,6850m),
C3(01/10,7200m),xxx(02/10,7600m
Left: 09/10
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned due to deep snow (1st try), then high winds (2nd try).

On first the first summit push, team was at C2 on 30/09. When the fixing team decided to continue, team moved to C3 to attempt for the summit on 02/10. The had good weather forecast; however, when they left C3 at 8 pm on 01/10 it snowed. The trail broken by the fixing team was literally gone. On the ridge it was not so deep, but it was sliding down. The traverse was deep snow. When they reached 7600m at 6 am they turned back and descended to BC the same day.

Second summit push: Good forecast for 07/10. Team left BC on 05/10 straight to C2. On 06/10 they moved from C2 to C3; halfway they met Nims Purja and his team who were at a C2 which was about 100m higher. His team was going to start their summit push from that camp that was at about 6600m. The teams were going to meet at C3 at 9 pm. However, it was very windy and when team reached C3 at 6 pm the winds were at about 70/km. As the wind did not die down during the night, they did not leave their tent.

Nims arrived at about midnight and his team left for the summit at 5 am despite the high winds. The wind abated at about 7 am; however, the Klein team decided it was too late to attempt for the summit and descended to BC.

The left BC on 09/10 by foot to Italian base camp. The paths on this route were completely destroyed by the monsoon. On 10/10 to Bagar (2080m), on 11/10 to Takam (1670m); from there jeep to Beni and then Pokhara.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used


Adrian Laza (Romania)

Appr: By heli from Pokhara
Camps: BC(30/09,4700m),C2(01/10,6400m),C3(03/10,7200m),Smt(15/10)
Left: 16/10 by heli to Pokhara
Hired: 3
Term: Success by Laza, Ang Tenjing, Sonam, Tenzing Lama at 5:30 am.

During the first summit push, it was very windy. On 03/10 they descended from C3 to C2 as their tent collapsed at C3 due to the wind. When they reached C2 at about 10 pm and wanted to occupy their tent, Nims Dai was in the tent with his clients and refused to vacate the tent. Laza, Ang Tenjing and Nima (Carlos Soria’s Sherpa) pitched a tent and had a rough night. On 04/10 the descended to BC and left for Kathmandu by heli on 05/10.

On 10/10, Laza, Ang Tenjing, Tenjing Lama and Sonam Sherpa had the opportunity to fly back to Dhaulagiri BC. Laza knew that he had to have a lot of support and hired three Sherpas. On 13/10 they ascended to C2 and to C3 on 14/10.

They started their summit push at 9:30 pm. The conditions were tricky due to deep snow and no fixed rope on the traverse, but straightforward climb. It was quite windy. They ended up a little bit above the traverse of the previous teams and fixed some ropes. They spent about 30 mins on the summit. It was cold and windy.

They descended to BC the same day where they arrived at 2:30 pm.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by all summiters.

Fixed rope: 200m on traverse