원정 개요

Report from Zdenek Hak:

Approach: Lukla->Gokyo->Gokyo Ri->Cho La->Lobuche East for acclimitization.

BC 30/10 4600m
ABC 31/10 5400m
C1 01/11 5800m
C2 02/11 6000m
C3 03/11 6400m
Smt 04/11 by Gembal and Hak at time 11:30 am.

Left on the 4th Nov early morning 6 am. Perfect conditions. Spent 1 hour on the summit taking photos. Good temp, light wind. Perfect. C2 same day and slept the night. 5th Nov returned to BC.

Gembal left BC on 8 Nov by walking to Lukla.

Gembal was a client of Hak.


Report from Pedro Queiros Clemente (from Facebook):

@Pangboche, Nepal

The final journey to the summit of Ama Dablam mountain in Nepal took a total of 80 hours.

50 hours to go up and 30 down. 80 hours of constant struggle, focus every second, anxiety in accomplishing the goal, a lot of joy and fear too.

The mountain is not an easy place. It's cold and uncomfortable And when you're there, in the middle of the Himalayas, without the comforts you're used to, no cell phone network, no food in the fridge, no heating, no TV, no car, you have to be the best version of yourself.

The summit arrived on Friday, October 29th at 8:45 am.

After two days of hiking in dizzy precipitation and climbing monstrous walls, some level 5B or 5C, there was still 9 hours of hiking through rock, ice and snow to reach the summit.

It was at this moment that not all went well. The wind increased to 60km/h at dawn from the attack to the summit and there were fears of getting worse. Snow flurries slammed the body and some rocks and ice rolled down the mountain.

At 3:50 in the morning we found an abandoned tent next to the old Camp 3 at 6400 meters altitude, and we stayed there for two hours waiting for the sunrise. Sitting with head between knees and hugging my legs to try and keep warm. It was -25 degrees and the wind was beating the fragile tent cloth. Still sang some Bob Marley songs "Every little thing, is gonna be all right. "I thought a lot about my family and friends.

At 5:45 and with the first rays of light, we decided to leave the tent and advance to the summit trying mode. If it wasn't possible to move forward, we'd have to cancel the climb. And always not forgetting that you had to go back.

Step by step we went there for 4 hours, going up and up and down. The sun did not warm the body but at least it was a sign of hope. Sometimes the wind would hit my snowy face so hard, it was like being slapped. Many times I stopped feeling my fingers and toes.

About 100 metres from the summit my tears started to fall and the mantra was just one: "You can do this!! No one takes you out of this adventure!!"

Reached the peak.

Took some pictures with our flag, thanked the heavens and placed a lego block of my son Vicente in the snow. Phone just died in 5 minutes Hugged my friend and guide Furba Tenjing Sherpa . A hero and a living legend. Without him none of this would be possible.

Now I still have to go back. Going up is optional. Going down is a must.