원정 개요

BC 09/11
C2 10/11 6000m (only Bovard, Perruquet)
Smt 11/11 by all members.

Cazzanelli and Favre from BC to summit in one push. Cazzanelli started at BC on 11/11 at 6:30 am, on the summit at 1 pm. Favre started at 3:30 am, on the summit at 11 am.

Perruquet and Bovard started from C2 at 7 am, on the summit at 11:30 am.

Cazzanelli and Perruquet back to BC at 5 pm, Bovard and Favre at 6 pm. Left BC on 12/11.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


Speed Ascent Report from Cazzanelli:

Cazanelli started at 6:30 am from a specific “solid point” of the base camp (a stone grave, as he had chosen in Manaslu BC) at 4567m. From there:

In 1:00 to Yak Camp
In 1:50' to C1
In 2:50' to C2
In 3:50' to C3 (stopped 15 to 20m at C3, a stop included in total time)
In 5:32'8'' from BC to the top

Only Russell Brice in 1995 and Jorge Egocheaga in 2011 had reached similar climb rate standards in the past (respectively 3:20' from 5200m to the top; 5:28' from 4900m to the top). Cazzanelli considers his BC to C1 not to be a good time, since he started with too many clothes (feared to be cold, so had taken too much clothing, was “mouillé de chaud”).

On the opposite his descent time from summit to C3 was very fast: 18 min. After the 4:30 long stop at C3 for the rescue, needed 2:17' from C3 to BC. His total descent absolute time is 2:34'52'' (not counting as a proper speed descent record).

Favre started at 3:30 am from the same place in base camp, needing 7:30 for his speed ascent from BC to summit.

Bovard and Perruquet reached the top 15 min before Favre (both stayed for a while on top, then started to descend before the arrival of Favre and Cazzanelli). Cazzanelli reached the top 1 hour after Favre, staying maximum 10 min on top.

On descent, the Italians (All 4?) helped Mingma David Sherpa team (Nims Dai) with the rescue of an Iranian female climber. The latter showing signs of a full edema, couldn't walk, sleeping all time. Put her on a maximum oxygen flow for 1 hour, then she was feeling a bit better. As a mountain guide and rescuer himself, Cazzanelli felt shocked by the Sherpas' behaviour, lacking of professionalism and responsibility: as himself was spending money in satellite phone calls, Sherpas were laughing. In KTM, Cazzanelli even had troubles with the Iranian climber's lawyer, regarding pictures he had published on Facebook regarding the rescue. In total, the Italians stayed 4:30 at C3 for help in this rescue.