원정 개요

The expedition called “Jeunes Alpinistes de Haut Niveau” was funded by FFME (Federation Francaise de Montagne et d'Escalade) and was the final session of youngsters training course. It was coached by J-F Hagenmuller. The expedition aimed for 2 goals: open 1 or 2 new rock routes on the East Face of Lobuche East, then 1 or 2 ice routes on the North Face of Kwangde.

On Lobuche East, 2 teams tried 2 distinct lines:

1: On 14 and 15 October 1994, Mallon, Ravanat and Hagenmuller tried the future “Two Arrows Flight” (Ukrainians likely found the remnant of their attempt in 2014, LOBE-141-01), but had to abandon after 2 days of climbing because of serious repeated rock falls.

2: From 14 to 19 October 1994, Thinieres, Robert and Mercier opened a new modern line right at the core of the East Face. Trio started in the vicinity of “Ave Maria” then straight up into the most compact rock area of the middle of the face, right to “Ave Maria” and Korean route which it crosses in the higher part. Team found excellent rock, very sculpted, allowing to climb with a maximum of removable protections (5 spits left in the face). In the upper part, team had however to contour a 100m high rotten schist band by the left (when Koreans went up by the right at that stage), traversing until it reached the corniced ridge leading to the fore-summit of Lobuche East.

Route is called “The Golden Friends” (hommage to Thinieres who passed away in 2004): 900m (last 100m in snow to reach the summit ridge), rock French 6c+ obligatory /7a maximum.

Preparation on 14 and 15 of October; climb from 16 to 19 of October with 3 nights on portaledge in the face. Robert considers it afterwards as “a modern route offering a very pleasant climb, rather committed, with a perfect view on Everest and Nuptse.”

After Lobuche, team would face dry conditions on the Kwangde North Face (dates unknown).

Hagenmuller, Mallon and Robert tried for the Lowe-Swenson pillar (1989) on Kwangde Nup, aiming for the direct exit (Doublebsky-Lienerth, 2001). On second day of their attempt, at the middle of the pillar, a rock fall cut down their double rope into a single one. After numerous 30m abseils, could exit out of the face.

Thinières, Ravanat and Mercier attempted a steep ice line in the face down to Kwangde Lho, attacking between Breashears-Lowe route (1982) and “Mandala” (Lorenzo-Munoz, 1985). Without much ice but just snow on the rock, they had a few frightening pitches without reliable protections before abandoning the climb.