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Batard & Sungdare made probably the fastest ascent of Cho Oyu to date. They were entirely alone on the mountain & encountered nearly knee-deep fresh snow. On 27 Aug, 3 days after they had arrived at their BC (5700m), they pitched a bivouac tent at 6700m, their only tent above base, tried to go the top on the 28th, but they were not well acclimatized & retreated to base. On 31st they went again to 6700m. In the evening at 10 pm left for the summit, climbed all night in full moonlight & were on the top at 10 am on 1st Sept. By 5:30 pm the same day they were back in base, having carried their bivouac tent down with them. Batard had flu & was on antibiotics throughout the climb.

From BC went without camps higher. 1st climb therefore biv 26 Aug 6200m and 2nd night to 6700m. 3rd day (28 Aug) started for summit without tent and was too quickly reached 8000m and back to biv - were too tired, not acclimatized. Took more direct route than normal route way but not very difficult. Down to BC on 29th and stayed there 2 nights. 31st up again by normal way; left BC 1:30 pm and reached biv tent at 6700m on a plateau at 6:30 pm. Had food and drink and started up at 10:00 pm and climbed all night in full moonlight and on top at 10:00 am 1 Sept. When reached top were in fog but suddenly fully clear and could see were on highest point but found no metal flag. Much fresh snow made it almost knee deep. Stayed about 30 min on summit in warm sun. Down directly back to BC with biv equipment and arrived at BC 5:30 pm 1 Sept. Saw no other people's tents. "Physically it was very difficult for Sungdare and me." Sungdare very strong and when no track already made, he and Batard go at same speed. This climb was preparation for Everest, not a bid to scale all 8000ers but I am very happy to climb.