원정 개요

South Peak climbed on 18 May by Shigehiro, Wada, Mitani and Nima Temba.

Central Peak climbed on 5 May by Isono, Otani and Nawang Yonden and on 18 May by Shigehiro, Wada and Mitani traversing from South Peak.

Main Peak climbed on 19 May by Ozaki and Ang Tshering and on 20 May by Wada and Mitani.


Kano - 7 June 84

South Central Main
C4 - 29 Apr - 7850m 1 May - 7850m 5 May - 7800m
C5 - 17 May - 8250m 16 May- 8200m 18 May - 8200m

C5 not on ridge but just below to protect from wind and because little use of oxygen below C5's.

Traverse party went along ridge from South to Central Summits, then down to C4 and Middle and up, not along ridge between Central and Middle summits. Less snow than usual this season, no time to make route on this long knife ridge. No attempt on Yalung Kang because no time.

2 weeks between C3 and 1st C4. Very strong wind above 7000m in last half April and climbing members sent down for 1 week rest after C3 established. Strong cold winds threatened frostbite.

Generally weather clear but strong winds till 10 May after which good weather

Summits:

17 May Central Summit by Isano, R Otani and Nawang Yonden.
18 May South Summit by Shigehiro, Wada, Mitani and Nima Temba (Nima Temba
to South C4 and ABC while 3 Japanese to Central Summit and thence to C5).
19 May Main Summit by Ozuki and Ang Tshering by normal route and to ABC via
Main C4. Shigehiro's (on poor oxygen flow) to ABC good condition; Wada and
Mitani traversed from C5 to C4 and Main C4 and Main C5.
20 May traverse Wada and Mitani Main C5 to Main Summit to Main C5 hoping to try
for Yalung Kang next day along ridge, but was not possible to send support
party with oxygen, etc supplies because party too tired to reach Main C5. That
night Kano decided to give up idea of Yalung Kang and told Wada and Mitani to
descend next morning.
21 May Wada and Mitani to ABC.
22 May all members and Sherpas to BC. All climbing finished.

South to Central summit ridge strong cold wind but technically only one part difficult. 50m section took 3 hours to overcome bare rocks this section.

Oxygen use: Sleeping from C4 and climbing from C5's but some from C4 to C5. All attack parties used from C4's including Sherpas.

Routes to South and Central Summits probably almost same as Poles (routes in German photos to South Summit probably not correct). Main part - ridge there almost impossible.

Hang-gliding from M C4 to just below BC by 1 member [Tadano] who was not expert climber, who needed support and delayed climb 10 days. Tadano glided on 10 May. Support for that project, scientific work also distracted climb. Would like to see attempt in just to climb to all 4 summits by 15-16 members and 20-25 Sherpa ala porters, but would still need support camps for each summit in order to supply oxygen. Limit above 8000m without oxygen is 2 days normally and would take 3 days minimum for traverse if support parties put in some fixed ropes in advance. Oxygen supply system must be improved to last 4-5 days or support routes and supplies are required.


Shrestha, Tourism - 20 May 1984

On May 16 Gota Isono, Ryo Otani and Nawang Yonden (member) established C5 Central Peak at 8270m and on 17 May these 3 started to Central summit 07:00 hours from C5. Reached top 15:43 hours and returned to C5 at 18:30 hours safely. Weather that day fine.

South Peak: 17 May C5 established by Tsuneo Shigehiro, Seishi Wada, Toichiro Mitani and Nima Temba Sherpa (member). 18 May started up from C5 to 06:30 hours and reached top at 07:30 hours; stayed there till 09:00 hours. Weather fine but strong wind. From summit Nima Temba returned to C3 safely and 3 Japanese went towards Central Peak in start of traverse. Reached Central Peak at 16:30 hours in face of strong winds. Reached C5 of Central Peak at 18:25 hours safely.

19 May Wada and Mitani plus Masashi Teramoto planned to traverse to Main Peak while Shigehiro descended to C4 of Central Peak because of his health. Shigehero had not used oxygen from South to Central Peak and in descent to C5 of Central Peak (he was leader of traverse team).

18 May Takashi Ozarki (born 1952, mountain guide) and Sirdar Ang Tshering (35 years, Namche) established C5 Main Peak 8250m and planned on 19 May to prepare route up to Main peak to help traverse party; only after success of traverse to Main Peak and descent to C5 of Main Peak, they will decide to traverse to West Peak (Yalung Kang).

Film team say plan leave BC 23 or 24 May depending on Yalung Kang traverse.