원정 개요

Summit team left C4 at 8 pm of 23 May, summited at 4:30-6:00 am, then descended to the S Col.

Oxygen: Members and Sherpas from C3 or C4 to summit to C3.


From Jacob Gardner - 20 Dec 2021

Summit Push:

BC 16/05 5300m to C2 6500m
C2 21/05 6500m to C3 7100m
C3 22/05 7100m to C4 7950m
C4 24/05 7950m to Smt

Smt 24/05 by Jacob Gardner, Don Wargowsky, Karma Gyalje Sherpa and Gyalje Sherpa at 4:30 am, and by Eric Gran, Tenzing Sherpa and Ang Dorje Sherpa at 6:00 am.

Jacob Gardner (Jake) and Don Wargowsky pushed to 8000m without O’s. They left C3 on the 22 May at around 07:30 am after the winds had died down. It took them around 9 hrs at a steady pace to reach C4. The original plan was to stay at C4 for 3 hrs and then head to the summit. But it was decided at C4 by leader Don that they would go for the summit the following day. The upside was avoiding any potential queues. Jake made the decision to not to sleep with no O’s at C4. This was his first time above 7000m.

Jake and Don left C4 at 20:00 on the 23rd May. Jake “With next to no one above us, a stark contrast to the night before. A clear night, with a full moon on O’s we made good progress up to the Balcony where we had a small break. We reached the summit at around 04:30 am at a steady pace. Stayed on the summit for around 30-45 minutes as it got light and then made our way back down. C4 to summit to C4 in around 12 hrs. We then made our way back down to C2. One night at C2 and then made our way back down to EBC the following day.”

[Gardner] suffered with back injury and arm (injuries sustained on operation in Afghanistan).

No attempt on Lhotse.

No COVID or illnesses in team as all rules were adhered to. No mixing with other teams.