원정 개요

Report from Anja Blacha (transferred from Furtenbach teams to Pioneer):

Regarding summit times:
5:55 am - Pasang Sherpa and Chakra Rai
6:00 am - Delia Zanoschi, Ming Dorchi Sherpa and Pemba Tashi Sherpa
6:10 am - Iulia Zanoschi, Lakpa Gyaljen Sherpa and Lakpa Thinduk Sherpa
6:20 am - Moritz Werner and Chhiring Namgel Sherpa
11:20 am - Anja Blacha and Dawa Sherpa

Manuel Villani who also moved from Furtenbach to Pioneer reached C2 on the summit rotation. He felt insecure about the whole move to Pioneer and was mentally not prepared for it. When the weather turned and it got windy he decided to go down after one night at C2.

Oxygen:
Blacha was intending to go without supplemental O2, but with the high winds
she started using oxygen at the Balcony to the summit and back to somewhere
between Balcony and C4.

Werner from 8300m to C4
Delia Zanoschi from C2 to summit to C3
Iulia Zanoschi C2 to just before BC
Sherpas from C3 to summit to C4


Report from Sambhaji Gurav:

BC(19/04,5340m),C1(23/04,6000m),C2(03/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7200m),
C4(22/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)

Team (Gurav, Kumar and Taibi) summited at 6:30 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C2 at 7 pm.

Oxygen:
Members from C3 to summit to C3, Sherpas from C4 to smt to C4


Khai Van Nguyen report:

BC(18/04,5364m),C1(04/05,5900m),C2(05/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7162m),
C4(22/05,7906m),Smt(23/05)

Van Nguyen and Chhiring Namgyal left C4 at 12:20 am, summited at 7 pm, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C4 at 11:40 pm.

"When I started out at South Col, the wind had died down significantly from the night before (when most climbers, including from Pioneer started their summit push). However, after about 3 hours, we reached to the balcony when the wind picked up again. Because we started our summit push at "odd" hour, there were only 4 people (2 climbers, that is myself and Markus and two Sherpas) going up. Other climbers were descending and surprised to see us going up. Near the yellow band rock with the steep slope, there was virtually no wind that I was warm in my down suit. Markus started out from South Col earlier than me, probably around 12:00 pm and climbed quite fast. He summited before me. I met Markus and his Sherpa near South Summit on their way down. While my Sherpa and I marched on to the summit, we experienced the beautiful sunset and by the time I reached to the top, the sun disappeared from the horizon."


Additional Notes:

Leo Namen was a client of Makalu Extreme on the Pioneer Adventures permit. Dorchi Sherpa is husband of Oxana Morneva (Makalu Extreme owner) and summited on 11/05 to take videos.