원정 개요

BC at Mingbo Glacier
Biv2 on SW Ridge.

Left 6100m bivouac at 7:00 am and reached top 2:20 pm; left top 2:45 pm and returned to biv at 5:40 pm. No sleeping bag with him there 2 nights since had expected to go top on 2nd May but had been able to reach only 6300m that day. Ridge was difficult climbing solo and with very little hardware.

Original route very hard, thought he would go by S Ridge and then if chance, try W Face, a very logical route and not so difficult techically, good straight line that can be done in one day but bottom glacier so terrible (lots of crevasses); needed rope partner. On 29th went to just below this glacier to have a look at W Face.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 14 May 84

Sakashita arrived KTM 14 May
SW Ridge climbed to summit in climb to survey W Face
BC - 4570m 27 April
28 and 29 April BC
30 April began climb and 5700m biv
1 May - fixed ropes and returned same biv
2 May - climbed to 6100m biv
3 May - due strong west wind stayed in biv till 7:00 am, then to top at 2:20 pm, 25 minutes on top, returned to 6100m biv without food but found Korean dried rice, jerky and smoked salmon and chocolate there.
4 May - BC