한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Exp of Korean Alpine Guides Association - Nuptse, Shartse

Shartse II · 1984 · 봄 (1) · S Korea

원정 개요

BC on Lhotse Shar Glacier (west of "a" in Glacier on Schneider Khumbu map).

1st try for top 4th May by 5 members and Nima Wangchu Sherpa. Reached 7350m on 4th May. Then a member fell 50m on difficult rock covered by soft snow and all returned to C4.

2nd summit attempt on 6th May by 2 other members and Nima Wangchu. Made C5 on 6th May; 7th May biv by these 3 at 7250m and 8th May all 3 on summit at 11:00 am and descended to C4 and BC on 9th May.

No attempt to Nuptse. Rather late and 2 members feet frostbitten. Funds gone buying replacement baggage because of CCU (Calcutta) port strike.

Very steep between C2 and C3 (70 degrees and more blue ice). Next most difficult part is near bivouac point. Above C3 is knife ridge. Entire route very steep and difficult zig-zag route.

  • 내부 원정 ID1057
  • 원본 EXPIDSHA284101
  • 대장Lee Yong-Ho
  • 루트 (Route)SW Face-S Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7457m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 10명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Yong-Ho LeeS KoreaLeader---
Ok-Sum HongS KoreaClimber---
Jung-Sik HuS KoreaClimber---
Jung-Ja KimS KoreaClimber---
Hyo-Kyun KwakS KoreaClimber성공--
Byung-Won ParkS KoreaClimber---
Dae-Pyo YoonS KoreaClimber성공--
Ang Pasang SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Nima Wangchu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Nuru Wangchu SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Lee Yong-Ho · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Shartse Expedition, 1984Lee Youg Ho · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198525603/Asia-Nepal-Shartse-II · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/41/21/expeditions-and-notes-41/ · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·