원정 개요

BC north of point 4100m at start of Kaphe Khola.

Strong wind on 1 April with broken at C1 and C2. 10 hrs to reach top from C3 (Japanese successful expedition had a C4 and took days to prepare route to top). No second summit attack because next day snowfall. April 1 only possible summit day when no snowfall and no smoke (from forest fires).

C2-C3 all fixed rope, much blue ice. Jung and Kang semi-alpine style from C2 to summit. Cho had actually wanted to climb to East Ridge but to right of route actually followed, but there was too much danger from ice fall and even had to slightly alter route.