원정 개요

BC 23/03 02/04 4200m
C1 27/03 04/04 5008m
C2 30/03 05/04 5515m
C3 12/04 14/04 6413m
C4 13/04 15/04 6986m
Smt 16/04 by all members listed below apart from Carriere at 1:30 pm.

Sirbaz, Abdul and Dawa Yangjum ascended to C4 on 13/04 even though they knew that the summit push was not going to be on 14/04, but they wanted to acclimatize up there. The rest of the team spent 13/04 at C3 (apart from Rzucidlo who was a day late due to sickness – see below) and ascended to C4 on 14/04. On 15/04 the whole team (apart from Rzucidlo) left C4 at 12:30 am and reached 7440m. The Sherpa team of about 10 people were fixing the ropes ahead of them. When they reached the high point at 5 am, the team had run out of rope and everyone descended to C4 again, which they reached at about 5:45 am.

Team left C4 together with the rope-fixing team at 11:30 pm on 15/04. The snow was deep as it had been snowing the whole night until 11 pm. Conditions were actually good as Sherpas had broken the trail, especially Mingma Tenji of SST. They spent about 20 minutes and descended to C4 where they arrived at about 6 pm. According to Rzucidlo, it was a bit chaotic on the summit as the line was very tight and there were too many people. The whole team descended to C4 after the summit and to BC on 17/04.

Gear was dropped at C4 on 15/04 by one helicopter. Ropes, fixing equipment, some oxygen bottles and food and gas were lowered to C4 by long-line.

Avalanche on 27/04: There were two avalanches while the Sirbaz and Joshi were on the way to C1. They did not get caught, but were in the spin drift of the second avalanche.

Rzucidlo’s health issues: After the first rotation, Rzucidlo came back to BC and fell sick with diarrhea. She took a helicopter to Pokhara on 07/04, where she stayed in a hotel for two nights and flew back to BC on 09/04. On 10/04, Rzucidlo still felt sick while the rest of the group started their summit push from BC. On 11/04, she took another helicopter to Pokhara and went to hospital there. She was put on a drip for the night and flew back to BC on 12/04. the other members of the team were at C3 on 12/04. On 13/04 she ascended from BC to C2 and on 14/04 to C3. On 15/04 she met her other teammates at C4.

Dean Carriere reached 5700m (the wall above C2) on 06/04. When he came down to BC he felt very unwell and was unable to walk properly. He flew to Pokhara on 08/04 and to Kathmandu on 09/04 where he spent two nights at HAMS hospital. He left Nepal on 11/04. Back in Canada he was diagnosed with Guillain-Barré syndrome (GBS) syndrome which is likely to have been brought on by the COVID-19 AstraZeneca vaccination.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Gina, Khan from 7900m to summit to 7800m and Joshi from 7800m to 8000m. Dawa Yangjum and Mingma Gyalje did NOT use oxygen.

Left BC on 18/04 by helicopter to Pokhara.