원정 개요

Team arrived in Kathmandu on 14/03. They quarantined for seven days at the Manaslu Hotel and flew to Pokhara and Jomsom on 23/04 and 24/04, respectively. They walked to Muktinath and then drove to Dana. On 02/04 they flew to BC from Dana.

BC 02/04 4200m
C1 05/04 5200m
C2 06/04 5600m
C3 14/04 6400m
C4 15/04 6986m
Smt 16/04 by Harshe, Gavare, Mandale, Dawa Ongju Sherpa, Mingmar Tindu Sherpa,
Pasang Tenji Sherpa between 1:30 and 2 pm.
Smt 16/04 by Sheetal and Pasang Sherpa at 2 pm.

Summit team left C4 at midnight like most other teams. The route was busy, and the snow was deep as it had snowed between 8 pm and 11 pm. They stayed about 15 mins on the summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 6:30 pm. On 17/04 everyone back at BC.

On the descent from the summit, the team bumped into Maya Sherpa Coster in the couloir at about 7900m whose Sherpa (who was also called Mingmar was feeling sick). Mingmar Tindu Sherpa accompanied Maya and Mingmar again to the summit.

Gear drop (Zirpe’s opinion):

Gear was dropped at C4 on 15/04 by one helicopter. Ropes, fixing equipment, some oxygen bottles and food and gas were lowered to C4 by long-line. “But if the helicopter had not come, a lot of people would have gotten into trouble. Mountaineering has changed and we have to adapt.”

Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by all members and Sherpas.

Left BC by helicopter to Dana.

Sheetal Raj, Yogendar Garbiyal and Maya Sherpa were not Zirpe's clients, but climbed with Peak Promotion.

Umesh Zirpe and his team were going to climb Lhotse. They arrived at BC on 27 April but when it became clear how many climbers were already infected with COVID-19 and how many had been evacuated, Zirpe and Mandale decided to leave BC on 02/05 and to go back to India on 04/05.

Jitendra Gaware and Dinesh Kotkar decided to stay and continue their expedition to Everest and Lhotse.