원정 개요

Seven Summit Treks Annapurna expedition was a combination of several independent individuals. Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. Their accounts are given below:


Uta Ibrahimi (Kosovo)

Appr: Trekked via Tatopani to BC
Camps: BC(23/03,4200m),C1(04/04,5300m),C2(05/04,5600m),C3(12/04,6300m),
C4(14/04,7200m),Smt(16/04)
Left:
Hired: 1
Term: Success at 13:00

Summit team: Viridiana with Dendi Sherpa, Antonios with Dawa Sherpa, Ago (Lu Chung-Han) with Gesman Tamang, Badia and Mauricio with Pemba [Lakpa Temba?] Sherpa...and my Sherpa (Tashi) was sick so I climbed without him, just with the team.

We started our summit push on 15 April and 500-600m below the summit we had to return since there was no rope to fix. It was around 4-5 in the morning when we started to go down after all night of climbing. Later that day, they brought rope with helicopter.

The night of the summit it was snowing all the time till 23:30 and our tent was almost completely covered with snow; that's why I started a bit later (I was also climbing without a Sherpa so I wanted to climb after others would open the route.

In the first part, maybe the first 300m the snow was deeper, and then higher up the conditions were better. After some time I caught the fixing team and other climbers which were on Mingma Gyalje's team and I climbed after them.

When we started to climb the couloir, again the fixing team didn't have enough rope and all teams and climbers started to collect and give our own rope and ice screws. We reached the summit in good weather, but not so much visibility. Going down was fast. I ran out of O2 (I had 1 bottle) - kind of mis-organization.

I stayed on summit maybe 20 minutes, since I wanted to make room for other climbers who were coming. I think others stayed for 1 hour.

Oxygen: Ibrahimi used 1 bottle from C4 to summit and down part way.
Hired: Tashi Sherpa

Injuries:
Ago (Taiwan) he had just a little bit frostbite and I think on his fingers,
he was climbing without O2
Jarek (Poland) he had frostbite on how 2 fingers (I am not sure what happen),
they started without O2, but then they started to use it.
Others: nothing in our team.


Badia Bonilla (Mexico)
Mauricio Lopez (Mexico)

Appr: Helicopter to BC
Camps: BC(28/03,4700m),C1(31/03,5100m),C2(01/04,5500m),C3(11/04,6500m),
C4(14/04,6985m),Smt(16/04)
Left: 1
Hired: Lakpa Temba Sherpa, 14/05/85, Makalu
Term: Success at 13:30

First summit attempt on 15/04, but turned back due to lack of rope (rope then supplied by helicopter for summit attempt on the next day). Summit team of Bonilla, Lopez and Lakpa Temba Sherpa left C4 at 00:15 on 16/05, summited at 13:30 pm. Long way from C4 to summit. So much cold, may be -35 centigrade. Returned to C4 arriving at 6 pm.

Oxygen: Used from C4 to summit to C4.
Hired: Lakpa Temba Sherpa, 14/05/85, Makalu


Waldemar Kowalewski (Poland)
Jaroslav Zdanowicz (Poland)

Appr: Trekked via Tatopani to BC
(trekked in via a new and safer route from Tatopani)
Camps: BC(243/03,4000m),C1(26/03,4500m),C2(28/03,5200m),C3(12/04,6400m),
C4(14/04,7100m),Smt(16/04)
Left: 18/04
Hired: 0
Term: Success by both members at 13:00 pm.

They wanted to try without supplemental oxygen initially. As a reserve, they each had 3 liters of oxygen with them which they eventually used.

First summit push on 15/04. Couldn’t reach summit because ropes not fixed in French Couloir. Started at C4 at midnight and turned back at 7400m at 5 am. Later that day a helicopter dropped the missing ropes and some food for them at C4. A lot of snowfall in the afternoon.

Second summit push started at 1 am on 16/04. It was cold and windy, they measured -40°C. Started from C4 without using oxygen. Because of the cold, they took their reserve oxygen at 7800m. They had to wait in the queue of climbers, which made it more difficult because of the cold. Sherpas went ahead to fix the remaining ropes, which made progress slow. On the summit at 1 pm. Stayed for maybe 30 minutes. Many people on summit, some almost fell off the mountain because too little space for so many people.

Down to C3 at 10 pm. Next day to BC. On 18/04 Jaroslaw took a heli from BC to Tatopani. Then Jeep to Pokhara, on 20/04 by plane to Kathmandu. Waldemar was involved in the heli search for the missing Russians on 18/04. He then flew to Pokhara by heli from BC on 20/04. He will attempt Dhaulagiri later this season.

Jaroslaw frostbite (grade 3) on two of his fingers. No amputation, but lasting damage expected.

Oxygen: taken and used from 7800m to summit to just before C4.


Adrian Laza (Romania)

Appr: Trekked via Marpha, Yak Kharka to Tukuche BC; then by heli to Annapurna BC
Camps: BC(14/04,2200m),C2(14/04,5700m),C4(15/04,6900m),Smt(16/04)
Left: 18/04
Hired: 2
Term: Success at 13:00

Prior to arriving at Annapurna BC, Laza went to Tukuche to acclimatize and reached 6850mm. Then left by heli for Annapurna BC, arriving on 14/04, then quickly ascended to C4 on 15/05. Summited at 13:30 pm, stayed 15-20 minutes, then descended to C4 arriving at 19:30 pm. Good weather.

Dawa Sherpa abandoned at 7500m (5:00am) because his oxygen regulator failed.

Oxygen: Used from C4 to summit and down.
Hired: Dawa Sherpa, Nurbugaon


Lu Chung-Han (Taiwan)

Appr: Helicopter to BC
Camps: BC(24/03,4000m),C1(29/04,5100m),C2(05/04,5500m),C3(11/04,6400m),
C4(13/04,6800m),Smt(16/04)
Left: 17/04
Hired: 1
Term: Success at 14:30

First summit push on 14/04, but not enough ropes fixed. Reached 7000m and back to C4. Started for second summit push at 10:30 pm on 15/04.

Summit on 16/04 at 2:30 pm. On summit for maybe 30 minutes. Cloudy weather, many people on summit. Back to C4 at 7 pm. On 17/04 got frostbite on toes and fingers (grade 2). Helicopter from C4 to BC and on to hospital in Kathmandu.

Oxygen: Carried for emergency, not used (both member and hired)
Hired: Gesman Tamang (stayed to participate in the rescue of Russians).


Dmitri Sinev (Russia)
Alexandr Lutokhin (Russia)
Sergei Kondrashkin (Russia)

Appr: By heli from Tatopani to BC
Camps: BC(02/04,4000m),C1(04/04,5100m),C2(05/04,5500m),C3(14/04,6400m),
C4(15/04,7300m),Smt(16/04)
Left: 19/04
Hired: 0
Term: Success by Sinev (15:00 pm) and Kondrashkin (13:30 pm)

They had their C4 higher than normal C4, at 7300m. They didn’t climb together, but everyone in his own pace and time. All three started for summit push at C4 at 6 am on 16/04. Sergei reached summit at about 1:30 pm, together with Sadetskiy and Sykaris from other teams. Dmitri on the summit at around 3 pm.

Sergei back at C4 at 5 pm. Dmitri back at C4 at 10 pm. Alexandr on his way up from C4 got frostbite on fingers and didn’t reach the summit. He turned back to C4. Wasn’t acclimatized enough.

All three spent horrible night at C4, their tent was torn. Next morning down to normal C4 at 6800m. Sergei went first and got there in 1 hour. Dmitri got there after 5 hours, Alexandr after 9 hours. Sergei prepared an old tent he found there because they had left their broken tent behind. Alexandr was in bad condition, badly frostbitten. Their walkie-talkie was out of battery so they couldn’t call for help. Next day Sergei couldn’t find the fixed ropes down, they were buried in deep snow. In the night, they put a headlamp on their tent, with flashing light, hoping for someone below to see it and send help. Waldemar Kowalewski at Crampon Point spotted the flashing light. Next morning on 19/04 heli came and rescued them, one by one on long-line to BC. From BC to hospital in Kathmandu on the same day. Sergei has a pulmonary infection and bad cough. Dmitri slight frostbite on fingers, not serious. Alexandr severe frostbite on fingers, necessary amputation.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


Antonios Sykaris (Greece)

Appr: Trekked via Tatopani to BC
Camps: BC(24/03,4190m),ABC(27/03,4450m),C1(28/03,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),
C3(12/04,6400m),C4(14/04,6890m),Smt(16/04)
Left: 19/04
Hired: 1
Term: Success at 13:33 pm

Summit attempt on 15/04, got to 7400m when team ran out of rope. Next day attempt, left C4 at 12:00 am, summited at 13:33, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C4. Good weather, but extremely cold (-36C).

Oxygen: Used from 7500m until 8090m after summit finish.

Hired: Dawa Sherpa (Italian Dawa)