원정 개요

Notes from Petro Shamborovskyi:

Route: Pangboche(4000m), ABC(24/04,5300m), C1(25/04,5800m), C2(26/04,6000m),
C3(27/04,6400m), Smt(28/04)

Russian-Ukrainian-Belarussian team left C3 at 5 am, summited at 1 pm, stayed 30 minutes, then descended to C3. The weather was good, partly cloudy with more clouds at the summit. Quite a lot of ice, what made climbing more complicated.

No Sherpas, no oxygen.

This team were SST members on a Satori Adventures permit.

From Oleg Ivanchenko's Extreme Guide Facebook page:

Ama Dablam 6812m - there is a summit! We managed to get out of the weather window and before the snowfalls.

Chronicles of the guide Oleg Ivanchenko. Ama Dablam is "scary beautiful". The magnet peak, which is looked at, everyone who was on the track to Everest, and many dream of climbing.

Two members from our group were in Nepal for the first time and of course did not understand the "beauty" of Ama-Dublam until the end. And for the other two, this is the second attempt at climbing: Igor Korovin and Rostislav Khrapko. Everyone's motivation was different and we went up.

In the last two years that I have not been to Ama Dablam, the relief has changed a lot. What became clear when we went to Island Peak. There is almost no ice and snow on the route above 6000m. Cats (crampons) need to be dressed as needed. "Mushroom ridge" is no more, there is a rock comb and a little ice downstairs. Before heading out on stage 6400m (Camp 3) cool takeoff and even the vertical ice stage where we used the pedal. Above C3 ice and rocks. In places, the ice is up to 50-60°, Bergshrund opened before the top.

Soon Ama Dablam will be such a Matterhorn, which will be able to walk in normal shoes and without cats.

Due to dry winter and low-snow spring, the main danger on the mountain is the probability of stonefall. We were lucky as we came out after the snowfalls and all the stones were under the snow, and the temperature fell.

Every season the railings (ropes) on Ama Dablam are updated (during the season they are very rubbed, or hidden in the ice, the glacier relief changes and new ones need to be hung).

A little intrigue before the start on the mountain was that the ropes may not have time to spend the assault day. The season in Nepal this year is short and all the efforts of Sherpa are on Everest and Lhotse. The renewal of ropes on the mountain began just during our vacation before the mountain. While we were going to the top, we brought the ropes to C3 and to the top, but the last 100m through Bergshrund remained.

So that for sure and with stock we decided to start from Camp 3 (6400m) to the top. The option to walk from C2 (6000) is quite exhausting, leaving no later than 0:00, descent to camp after the mountain in the bright time of the day is problematic, sometimes climbing from C2-top-C2 takes more than 20 hours. The probability of mistakes in the dark time of day on the descent is very high. In addition, the exit from C3 can be planned at 3:00-4:00. What we did.

Bergshrund and to the top hanged together with a Sherpa who led Hindu with oxygen using the found ends of the rope on the route and his gear. On the mountain we were alone + Sherpa and Hindu. Unfortunately, we did not see panorama on the Himalayan ridge - it was dragged by clouds.

Our route: Pangboche-ABC (frontline base camp), C1 (5800m), C2 (6000m), C3 (6400m), summit, C3, C1, Pangboche.

If you talk about the climbing and the technical part starts from Camp 5800m (C1) and to the top, and then not a quick descent through the same camps. On the descent we got into snowfall and quickly we couldn't leave the mountain. We spent 7 days on the mountain. Cargo drop for porters up to 5800m, above everything is autonomous and on yourself.

Part of the group is already in Kathmandu, and Petro Shamborovskyi and I are recovering strength and licking wounds in Namche Bazar.