원정 개요

BC at Khadjung Glacier (same site as Messner's).

29th April made summit attempt from C4 and reached 7500m (all 4 climbers). Then Ang Rita and Nuru had to go to BC to send for fuel and oxygen to Namche while women waited in C2. Started to climb again on 8 May but snowstorm kept them in C3 for 2 days. Finally on 12 May pitched C5 and on 13 May to summit.

Ang Rita and Nuru did most of load carrying and put in much of the fixed rope. These 2 Sherpas and 2 women climbed together almost all the time.

Most difficult climbing between C3 and C4 steep ice and above C5 steep rock - very long route. Above C5 (7700m) small avalanche started by Ang Rita hit them in steep couloir in 2nd summit bid (Ang Rita was leading).

After that no more climbing was possible. There were no members who were not exhausted from their efforts on the mountain which had begun on 12 Sept.

This is small expedition, assisted by only [2 Sherpas who were listed as "members" since the peak had not been previously climbed by Nepalese citizens].