원정 개요

Approach: 01/10 Chhetchhet, 03/10 Surmuche, 04/10 Beding, 05-06/10 Na, 07/10 Tsho Rolpa lake, 08/10 Base Camp.

BC 08/10 4700m
ABC 19/10 5800m (at foot of the W Face)
Biv1 26/10 6100m
Biv2 27/10 6450m
Smt 28/10 by Symon Welfringer and Sylvan Schuepbach, at circa 2-3 pm.

Pachermo acclimatization:

12 Oct: base camp to bivy at 5100m amid of the new via ferrata giving access to Drolambao Glacier (brand new cables!). Met with a whole team in Na ready to install a shelter at Tashi Lapcha in honor of David Lama.
13 Oct: bivy to ABC at 5400m.
14 Oct: passed Tashi Lapcha, slept a 100m behind it.
15 Oct: attempt until 6100m, stopped by wind slabs/avalanche risk; back to same bivy than previous night.

Charles Noirot left on 18 Oct due to sickness after Parchermo climb.

First attempt on W Face (by same line as second attempt):

19 Oct: up to 5800m ABC.
20 Oct: up to footstep of the face. Snowing all time. In the face lots of spindrifts, weather forecast not good for coming days. Back to BC.

Second attempt and 1st ascent:

25 Oct: BC reached ABC at 5800m.
26 Oct: 2 technical ice pitches (4+/5) to reach footstep of the big snowfield that was used until a rocky “lentille” at Biv1 6100m.
27 Oct: at first 100/150m of steep snow (c.70° steep), then more technical pitches: M4, grade 5 in ice, then a crux pitch in M6 to reach Biv2 (6450m) at a good place.
28 Oct: left Biv2 at 6 am to reach summit (6820m) trough 4 or 5 mixed ground pitches (M5, with 1 or 2 in M6) and ice flutes (70° steep) in the exit where lied crux pitch of the whole route (M5/M6). Reached back to Biv2 in the night needing about 10 abseils.
29 Oct: abseiling back to ABC.
30 Oct: back to BC.

New route called “Trinité” (1500m/M6/AI5), with great mixed difficulties. Route reached North Summit of Tengi Ragi Tau, which is located on Finn Map not north of “Lanmuche Kol” (6552m), but south-east to it.

In total needed 38-40 abseils for the whole face in the face on abalakovs, pitons and “câbles”.

Left BC on 1 November.

Oxygen: not taken, not used

Route: new route up the West Face “Trinité” (1500m, M6, AI5) to North Summit.

Other peaks: Parchermo (not to summit, stopped at around 6050m).