원정 개요

BC 02/10 4330m at foot of TENE
ABC 13/10 5100m
Biv1 14/10 6000m
Biv2 15/10 6250m
Biv3 16/10 6550m
Smt 17/20 by all members.

Acclimatized around Parchermo, staying for nights at 5500m, Tashi Lapcha (5600m). Tried for Parchermo's normal route, reaching a high point of 5800m on 10 Oct; abandonment caused by wind slabs danger. Previously had an incident with a Sherpa from a trekkers group who stole one of their tents.

Intended first to climb West Face of Tengi Ragi Tau East, but when saw various ropes staying there changed their mind for east summit SSW pillar, climbed by a French team in 2005.

13 Oct: BC to ABC at 5100m, at foot of difficulties.

14 Oct: 5100m to 6000m on the pillar. Left Parchermo trail to walk up by glacier below the West Face of the SSW Pillar. Strated with snow/mixed ground (not too hard: 60° steep, few mixed steps). Reaching the pillar, the trio would continue up by some rock pitches to reach their bivy.

15 Oct: mostly met with rock difficulties (up to 6a/6b) on beautiful granite; then had few snow and mixed ground (few steps) pitches until reaching second bivouac at 6250m.

16 Oct: started with poor snow quality; then had nice rock pitches and 1 M6 pitch before reaching the final snow ridge at 6400m. Slept at 6550m.

17 Oct: continued to follow the snowy ridge. With a late monsoon, was lots of snow on the ridge, not transformed, which happened to be the crux part of the whole route. Summited at 8 am, then abseiled and down-climbed until ABC, reached at 6 pm.

18 Oct: back to BC.

19 Oct: left BC.

Oxygen: not taken, not used

Records: 1st repeat of SSW Pillar avec variante d'attaque?