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Basque Makalu Expedition

Makalu · 1984 · 봄 (1) · Spain

원정 개요

BC at moraine on west side of Chago Glacier
Biv at start of joining Baruntse Glacier.

Erro and Zabaleta left expedition early.

Spent several weeks in acclimatization climbing. Then 1st push to summit beginning 26th April and all 4 got to Makalu La where very windy and to 7400m maximum altitude in these 4 days. Then to BC.

2 members left and on 11th May De Pablos and Albrego began new push with bivs in new sites for most and one more bivouac. Arrived at top at 4:00 pm and returned to last biv at 10:00 pm = 23 hrs climbing. Lots of wind and cold throughout climbing period. Passed Basque flag at summit.

Technically not difficult. First 800m below Makalu La have to be very careful on this steep section. Going up the altitude was the problem.

Climbed several small peaks in area of Baruntse, Baruntse itself to 200m from top and Kangchungtse by 3 members during 1st summit push in late April.

  • 내부 원정 ID1050
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA84102
  • 대장Mari Abrego Santesteban
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8485m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Angel Maria (Mari) Abrego SantestebanSpainLeader성공--
Enrique-Julian (Kike) De Pablo BenitoSpainClimber성공--
Xabier Erro JaureguiSpainClimber---
Martin Zabaleta LarburuSpainClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Abrego, Mari · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1984 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198525400/Asia-Nepal-Makalu · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·