원정 개요

Both climbs in pure alpine style, no Sherpas above BC, no oxygen. Just BC staff, a cook and assistant cook.

Panpoche II:

18/09: Base camp at 3900m (two hours walking from Samagaon).
20/09: Bivouac at 5800m on SW Ridge. They followed SW Ridge from BC to bivouac location.
21/09: Stayed in bivy, bad weather.
22/09: Started from bivy at 5:30 am, reached the summit at 5 pm. Very bad weather the whole expedition. Quite dangerous climb, lose rocks on the ridge, not much options for belays. Not vertical, but steep climb. They used minimum protection. Rock too bad for belays. From bivy location they traversed for a while to SW Face, which they climbed to the summit, a steep snowy face up to summit (up to 80°). Weather on summit day okay. It was snowing in the morning, but sky cleared on the way up. After summit a 6-hour descent to bivouac. Descent on slighty different route, on S side, down a couloir with bad snow, steep sections. Reached bivy at 12 pm midnight. Very bad snow conditions. They only used rope on ridge between BC and bivy and on first part of SW Face. After that not possible to place reliable anchors.
23/09: Descent to BC, same location as on ascent.
24/09: To Samagaon. Stayed in Samagaon for a few days.

Panpoche I:

26/09: Base camp at 4300m in the valley east of Samdo. Bad weather for a few days
30/09: weather started to get better and they established first bivouac at 5600m.
01/10: bad weather, but they climbed for several hours to second bivouac at 5850m.
02/10: climbed to third bivouac at 6380m.
03/10: Started from bivy at 5 am. Reached the summit at 2 pm. Followed the North Ridge from the bivy, and had to traverse a wide plateau just east of the ridge. Tough snow conditions again, quite dangerous, avalanche danger and they had to break trail through the snow. Very narrow and dangerous summit ridge, sharp cornices, no possibility to place protection because of soft snow. Followed the ridge for about 4 hours to the summit. They roped up on the ridge. Summit very narrow, only space for 1 person at a time. Spent around 40 minutes at the summit. Then down to Biv3, same as on ascent, reached it at 6 pm.
04/10: Descent all the way to BC (same as on ascent). Rest days in BC for 3 days.
07/10: To Bimthang.
08/10: To Dharapani.
09/10: To KTM.