원정 개요

The Birukov couple, Ngima and Ngima Tenji started from C4 at 1:30 am, reached the summit at 7:30 am on 26 Sept, back to C2 at 4-5 pm. Not so busy on summit, quite warm weather, some clouds. Oxygen taken and used by members from C3 to summit and down to C4, by Sherpas from C4 to summit and down to C4.

Hamel, Hasslacher and Kocewiak started from C4 at 2:30 am, reached the top at 9 am (Hamel) and 10:30 am (Hasslacher and Kocewiak) on 27 Sept, back to C3 at 5:30 pm. Weather good, some visibility from the top. They climbed without oxygen and Sherpa support above BC.

The French group of Bazin, Delalle, Departe, Mingmar Tamang and Da Chhiri started from C4 at 1:30 am, reached the top at 7:30 am on 28 Sept and down to C2 at 4 pm. Bad weather, little bit of wind and snow. No visibility. Oxygen taken and used from C3 to summit and down to C3 by all members and Sherpas.

Lippert and Phurba Ongdi started from C4 at 12 am midnight, on summit between 6 and 7 am on 28 Sept, back to BC at 6 pm. Not busy on summit day, they were alone. Weather not good, foggy, no visibility. Oxygen used from C4 to summit and down C4 by member and Sherpa.

Warell and Chhedar started from C4 at 8 am, summited on 28 Sept at 2 pm, back to C4 at 4 pm. Bad weather in the night before summit push, got better during the day. Larsson got to 8000m on summit push. He was very tired and felt he was too slow to reach the summit before dark. Larsson was with Jangbu; they turned back at 1 pm. Oxygen used by Larsson and Jangbu from C4 to highpoint and down to C4, by Warell and Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to C4.

Olsson got sick and didn’t acclimatize well, he went to BC and turned around. He flew out from Samagaon on 20 Sept.

Bochniakov (with Warell and Chhedar) started from between 7.30-8 am on 28 Sept, reached summit at 2 pm, stayed on summit maximum 10 minutes, got back to C4 around 4.30 pm and slept there with oxygen. Next day went down to BC. Oxygen used C3 to smt to crampon point, although not necessary, but to drain out the cylinder.

Kreissig and Binya Dhakal climbed together with Mohan Singh Tamang and Bir Bahadur Tamang as hired. Dhakal was a personal friend of Kreissig from 2009.