원정 개요

BC 09/09 4800m
C1 11/09 5800m
C2 16/09 6400m
C3 17/09 6800m
C4 24/09 7500m
Smt 25/09 by Ernesto Olivares and Rodrigo Yaitul.

Summit team left at midnight from C4. Conditions clear, less wind, no snow, very clear night. Not even too cold (didn’t need mitts!). Olivares summited at 7:45 am, and Yaitul at 8:30 am. Time on summit: 1.5 hr Olivares, 30 mins Yaitul.

Last 50 meters was a bit hard for Yaitul because the ascending steps got destroyed by people coming down. Back at C4 for 1.5 hrs to eat, drink and rest a bit. Arrived C3 7 pm. Slept at C3 on that night of 25th then descended to BC on 26 Sept. Recovered gear at C2. Back to BC on 26 Sept, midday.

No Sherpas used above BC; no oxygen used (taken for emergency only).

Team left BC on 28 Sept and walked to Samagaon. Waited until 29th and got heli to Kathmandu.

Espinosa no summit; high point on above C1 (6000m). Climb abandoned on 12 Sept due to bad cough, got sick.