원정 개요

Tried from C1 for summit on 13 May but too long distance and so turned back at 6400m when was late (attempt by all 5 climbing members and 2 Sherpas). So made C2 on 14th and went to top on 15 May. Doctor did not go above BC.

Icefall of 1963 expedition not same route but mostly same as 1963 route. Very difficult, more difficult than expected. To C1 was difficult partly trying to find route (tried 3 times) through or around icefall which is very open with crevasses and lower than before and avalanches.