원정 개요

BC 21/09 4800m
C1 24/09 5700m
C2 28/09 6300m
C3 29/09 6800m
10/03 6900m

Summit: Went for summit push on 3/10, but stopped at 6900m, just above C3. High point was 7300m on earlier acclimatization day. Deep snow made summit impossible.

Description of climb:

• Went all the way to base camp after aborting summit push. Didn’t know timing for turning around at high point, but arrived back at base camp on 3/10 around 10 pm.

• Climbing pretty late relative to other teams, was the only group on the mountain for summit push. Base camp was also close to empty.

• Heavy snow—as high as upper thigh. Winds weren’t very strong and wouldn’t have been a problem if it wasn’t for deep snow.

Morton left BC 5/10.

Sherpas above BC: Didn’t start with one, but joined up with Pasang Dorje Sherpa from Thame [Samde] at base camp on 1/10, climbed rest of expedition together. Both turned back at the same point (6900m) on 3/10 and descended to base camp together.
Oxygen: Not taken, not used.