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Mike Yaeger, Himalchuli Expedition - 3 Sept 84

"Ultima Thule" - expedition corp came from Seattle. Left USA in early April '84. By end May 2 Nichols and Fitzsimmons (the leaders) were back in Seattle saying both had gotten sick. Budget was $540,000 for 17 Americans including medical staff of 3-4 doctors aiming research. Took computer to computerize medical data. Had formed a cooperation. Got to 22,000-24,000 ft (6700-7300m) only.


6 March 84

Peking (AP) - An American team that tried to scale Mount Everest said Saturday it was a "grand adventure" even though the effort failed when supplies ran out a day's climb short of the 29,028 ft high mountain.

Members of the Ultima Thule (ultimate in human adventure) expedition from Seattle returned here Saturday and spoke with awe for the world's tallest peak and with satisfaction of the medical knowledge they gathered. The 15-man team included four doctors.

Expedition leader Tom Fitzsimmons, 34, a govt official in Washington state said lead climbers reached a high point of 28,200 ft on May 20. He said only one more day of climbing was needed to reach the summit and become the first Americans to conquer Everest's northeast ridge, in China's Tibet province, but they had to turn back because oxygen and food ran out.

Three members of team had to be evacuated early in the expedition because of illness - including its original leader, Warren Thompson. However, the climb continued smoothly.

"We had three goals: climb safely, climb high and make the summit, and do medical research. We got two out of three." Fitzsimmons said "As a team, we lost 350 pounds."

Dr. Michael Wiedman, at 56 the oldest in the team, said the group's findings may benefit people who ski and vacation in mountainous areas by examining the cause of altitude sickness and the best remedy for it.

Yaks and porters helped carry research computers to tents at 21,300 ft, along with electro-encephalographs to measure brain waves and cameras to study eye-retina hemmorhaging.


From Don Goodman:

Everest Attempt. Our team included ten climbers: leader Thomas Fitzsimmons, Bob Berg, Jim Frush, Dave Hambly, Kurt Hanson, Ray Nichols, Greg Thompson, Warren Thompson, John Yaeger and me; two climbing doctors: Mike Colpitts and Anton Kakusa; four medical research doctors; Ben Blackett, Rick Foutch, Michael Wiedman and Rich Wohns; biomedical engineer Tom Clement; BC manager Phil Hawkins and photographer Art Wolfe. Three days travel by truck from Lhasa placed us at BC in the Rongbuk valley at 5100m on March 8. This was the same site as that used by the British in the 1920's, a mile from the snout of the Rongbuk Glacier. We spent several days organizing. The next two and half weeks passed quickly as we reconnoitered and established the route to C3 for 21 yaks and seven drivers to transport 4800 pounds of equipment. On March 28 the first yak caravan reached C3, a 5 day round trip along the rocky medial moraine of the East Rongbuk Glacier. Four different climbing teams rotated leads, placing 3000 ft of fixed line and 20 ft of rigid aluminium ladders over the steeper sections to reach the North Col. The task was completed on April 12 so that our six Tibetan porters were restricted by the Chinese Mountaineering Association to carrying only to C4, the difficult task of transporting loads to C5 was left up to the climbing team. While climbing activity was moving at a brisk pace above BC, the medical research team was equally busy setting up and fine tuning our high-tech data gatherings and computing systems. Later the same equipment performed well at heights exceeding 21,000 ft. Camp 5 was established at 7680m on April 25. Five members transported 850 pounds of oxygen and climbing equipment over a ten-day period in early May, which took a toll on their strength. While C5 was being stocked, two climbing teams were working the route from C5 to C6 at 8230m. This was more difficult than anticipated and required 1200 ft of fixed rope. C6 was established on May 15 and occupied by Tom Fitzsimmons and Greg Thompson on May 16. While others carried supplies, these 2 worked the route from C6 to C7, hindered by high winds and steep downsloping rock slabs. C7 was occupied on May 19 at 8540m. On May 20 Fitzsimmons and Thompson made a last gasp summit attempt. Upon reaching the first rock step at 8600m they realized it was futile and made a cautious retreat, reaching the North Col late that evening. On the 21st all camps above C3 were evacuated by support personnel. As per schedule yaks arrived on May 23 to evacuate C3. All personnel and equipment were back at BC on May 25.