원정 개요

BC a little below Japanese Winter 1983
C1 north of NE Col 2/3 of distance on Dhaulagiri map to French pass
C2 on NE Ridge.

C2 buried 3-4m snow and completed destroyed when reached crevasse on 27 April. 3 May new C2 established in big cave which was safe but tents damaged by wind. On 3 May ropes fixed to 7000m in attempt to reach C3 site at 7400m, but heavy loads and wind stopped them at 7000m. Messner party should have gone on to top on 9 May but weather too bad. Then decided needed 2 weeks of little more snow and wind to blow existing snow away. Nice route if not too much snow bringing avalanches and even for 3-4 days clear weather, snow very deep making progress slow or impossible.

No technical problems except between BC to C1 is converging icefall. Between BC and C1 many dangerous crevasses.

1 Sherpa fell into crevasse but not really injured. Both climbing parties were in avalanches between C1 and C2 but again not hurt.