원정 개요

ABC 17/09 5700m
C1 21/09 6300m
C2 26/09 6640m (and 01/10, 07/10 just to retrieve gear not sleep)

HPt 06/10 7200m (however Sherpas were working at about 7200m when
the avalanche/ snow break occurred, a slab slid off).

Climb abandoned on 6 Oct due to dangerous conditions of snow (like polystyrene), and then avalanche. Had 2/3 days of snow at C2.

Team spent 26/09 reached C2 to drop gear and retreated back to ABC. 1/10 spent the night at C2. Then went back to ABC the next day. The next time team went back was 7/10 just to retrieve gear at C2 and returned to ABC.

The Sherpas (Himalayan High Camp) took 1 week to try to fix the ropes. Went up to 100 mtrs before C3. When they fixed the last ropes, there was an avalanche/slab sliding off (plaque a vent), meanwhile the team were at ABC. One of the Sherpas (Lhakpa) fell, but was roped in so he survived.

Oxygen: taken, but didn’t use.

Back to ABC on 7 Oct and left ABC on 9 Oct via Makalu BC/Arun Valley (4 days walking to Num)

Sherpas:
Purna Tamang, Lamabagar-5, Dolakha, 1970/11/5
Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Solukhumbu
Pasang Gombu Sherpa, Solukhumbu

Note: Masatoshi Takeda was off on his own attempting the SW Face. The team never even met him. He arrived at his own camp (400m below team’s ABC Camp) 20 days before. No Sherpa guide, just a cook and assistant cook, unsure what their roles were at his camp. Maybe his high point was 6500m, but it’s unsure because they couldn’t see him. There was a lot of snow. He turned back. He actually returned one day before the team and team saw him along the route ahead of them on the return through Arun valley.