원정 개요

BC 2 hours before North Face BC
C1 east of Thulobugin Pass in Mristi Khola.

Attempt to climb nameless 7700m peak along W Ridge route to Annapurna I summit.

BC to C1 very dangerous (falling seracs daily), but Sigayret asks for 1986 or 1987 permit with safer BC site and route on west side of spur rather that this spring's east side at lower part of route. C1 had to be snow cave in steep section. C2 tents broken by storm and also made cave here. C2 to C3 difficult but not dangerous: rock and ice. C3 tents also destroyed and made cave between C3 and C4 long traverse slightly dangerous and getting to dangerous couloir.

"Weather not very bad not very good."

50m above high point of 23 April was wide steep (serac) icefall but this the last difficulty. Above that gentle sloping glacier to ridge. On ridge maybe difficult step midway on ridge to top but this perhaps can be got around on S Face.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 17 April 84

Annapurna I C3 6150m on 6 April but because of danger of avalanche to this camp on 7th April would 50m higher. 9 April all in BC for rest and planned to start climb 12 April.