원정 개요

Nakayama and Pemba Ongchhu Sherpa left C3 at 6 am on 25 Oct, summited at 15:30 pm, stayed 10 minutes, the dsecended to C3 at 8 pm.

Windy, sometimes snowy, not very cold, sugary snow on the face. Ice was also soft and lots of air inside, thus hard to use ice screws.


From Lindsay Griffin:

Pemba Sherpa and Hiroki Nakayama (Japan) approached Hongu (6764m) in October via the Hinku and Hongu valleys. Base camp and Camp 1 were in identical locations to the same camps used to climb Baruntse. The pair then crossed the West Col, south of Baruntse, descended the top section of the West Barun Glacier (aka Lower Barun Glacier), entered the glacier bay on the right, and made their final camp (Camp 3) at around 6360m immediately below the northeast face of Hongu. The final 350m is a steep snow and ice wall with serac barriers. The pair left the top camp on October 25 with minimal gear and, alternating leads, climbed nine pitches (70m rope). Some of the ground was very steep and the ice was like sugar. In strong wind and snow they reached the top at 3:15 pm. and after only 10 minutes began a rappel descent. They used snow stakes for most anchors, but when these ran out were forced to abandon an ice screw and Nakayama's Nomic axe. They regained camp at 8:30 pm.