원정 개요

Schedule:

13/10: reached Koto by bus and jeep over 2 days; from there at 2600m started the
approach march.

14/10: slept at Meta, 3560m.

15/10: slept at Kyang, 3840m.

16/10: slept at Phu Gaon, 3900m.

17/10: acclimatization day on a 4800m peak located above Phu, slept again at Phu.

18/10: up to 4900 base camp (Kari Kobler's). Chose this BC option instead of
"French BC" located further behind a long moraine that is tedious to cross.

19/10: rest day at BC, with a Lama's celebration.

20/10: rest day at BC.

21/10: fixed C1 at 5400m, back to BC.

22/10: rest day; Salino had a crevasse rescue training session with Sherpas.

23/10: up to C1.

24/10: rest day at C1.

25/10: up to C2, where group slept. There Glenn Johnson got some heart palpitations, so decided to stop at this stage of the route. Daniel Puttkemery, not giving much importance to reach summit (could have done it according to Salino), prefered to come down on next day with Johnson.

26/10: up to C3 (located on the ridge), where Yves Salino and Ilyas Kanann stayed, with 2 Sherpas, Furte and Ngima Tenzing. On that same day, Johnson and Puttkemery went down to BC accompanied by Dawa Sangye Sherpa.

27/10: C3 to summit to C3. The 2 members and 2 hired which slept at C3 started later than other teams at 10 am on that day, this to wait for wind to decrease and to avoid night coldness. Summit at 4 pm in normal conditions, no wind no cold. Stayed about 30 min on top, taking many pictures, talking by radio with BC. Back to C3 at 8 pm at night.

Salino considers considered that they took the right option by putting a C3 (when other teams didn't), since he doesn't believe they could have reached C2 on that day. However he doesn't think an additional C4 to be a usefull option (too high).

28/10: C3 to BC, reached at 8 pm. Hard day again, with bags full of all personal gear, Sherpas carrying the tents. Moraine traverse very hard.

29/10: rest at BC.

30-31/10: back to Koto over 2 days of walk.

Salino was back in Nepal this fall a long time after he had first been here in the 1990's. He was positively surprised by the overall improvement of organization.