원정 개요

BC at Meta deserted village
Biv3 on West Ridge.

Were on Yugoslav/Japanese normal route as far as 2nd biv. On 17th April climbed to 200m, route section of ice (icefall) which had worsened at top and would be difficult so went over (traversed east for 3 hrs) to S Face. On 17th returned to 2nd biv and on 19th made 2nd traverse and 3rd traverse. On 22nd started through a crevasse field and got gear through it to 5th biv on 23rd. Then Seely fell in crevasse on 24th and took 5 hours get him out; his load jammed and couldn't get it out at all. Seely had all food and stoves. Had planned to biv at 6400m.

Route not really interesting and hard enough to want to repeat but a good two man alpine-style route [could do it]. Spent lot of time acclimatizing and sitting out snowstorms which brought some avalanching.

Local people came up to 1st biv and stole camera.