원정 개요

Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-3 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Sophie Lavaud (Switzerland/France)

Appr: Marpha & heli to BC
Camps: BC(15/09,4750m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6500m),xxx
Left: 25/09/2019
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 6500m due to health condition of mother back home.

Oxygen: Taken, not used.

Sherpa: Dawa Sange (Makalu-Barun)


Varga Csaba (Hungary)
Luis Cortadellas (Spain)
Agustin Abanades (Spain)

Appr: Marpha & heli to BC
Camps: BC(18/09,4650m),C1(27/09,5600m),C2(02/10,6550m),C3(10/10,7250m),xxx
Left: 13/10/2019
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7350m due to snow and wind conditions.

Oxygen: Taken, not used [?]


Moeses Fiamoncini (Brazil)
Juan Mohr Prieto (Chile)
Sean James (UK)

Appr: Trekked via Marpha
Camps: BC(15/09,4700m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7250m),
C4(02/10,7500m),Smt(03/10)
Left: ?
Hired: 0
Term: Success by Juan Mohr Prieto on 03/10

Fiamoncini and Mohr started from C3 at 10 pm. Mohr was faster than Fiamoncini and he reached the summit at around 3 pm. At 1 pm (~8100m) Fiamoncini fell in the couloir for 50m, sliding down the slope damaging his helmet, and getting some bruises and frostnip on his fingers. He tried again to climb up the couloir, but was feeling too cold and decided to abandon the climb. On the way down he met Mohr again and they both walked back to C3 arriving at 10:30 pm.

Sean James reached high point at C4 at 7500m on 02/10. He spent two nights in C4 and was suffering from diarrhea and had to abandon climb on 04/10.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


Sergi Mingote Moreno (Spain)

Appr: Trekked via Marpha
Camps: BC(21/09,4700m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7250m),Smt(03/10)
Left: 05/10/2019
Hired: 0
Term: Success by Mingote at 1:30 pm.

Started at C3 at 9:30 pm, summited at 1:30 pm. down to C3 at 8 pm. Good summit day, windy, a lot of snow on the route. No fixed rope on traverse, very dangerous.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan)

Appr: By heli from Pokhara
Camps: BC(04/10,4650m),C1(08/10,5700m),C2(09/10,6450m),C3(10/10,7250m),xxx
Left: 12/10/2019
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7250m due to strong winds.

Sadpara climbed Manaslu before and was well acclimatized. Strong winds on Dhaulagiri forced him to abandon climb at C3.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)

Appr: Trekked via Marpha
Camps: BC(15/09,4650m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6450m),C3(02/10,7250m),Smt(03/10)
Left: 06/10/2019
Hired: 1
Term: Summit by Skatov and Sanu Sherpa at 2:30 pm.

Sanu and Skatov started from C3 at 7:30 pm. They did some rope fixing for 300m. Summited at 2:30 pm, then back to C3 at 6:30 pm. Very windy on summit ridge. Not so cold. Sanu Sherpa completed his 14x8000m.

Oxygen: Not used by Sanu, used by Skatov from 7400m to summit and back to 7400m.

Sherpa:
Sanu Sherpa


Josette Valloton (Switzerland)

Appr: Trekked via Marpha
Camps: BC(15/10,4650m),C1(22/09,5700m),C2(6450m),C3(02/10,7250m),Smt(03/10)
Left: 06/10/2019
Hired: 1
Term: Summit by Valloton and Changba Sherpa at 1 pm.

Between C1 and C3 a lot of snow. Started around 8:30 pm from C3, summited at 1 pm, down to C3 at 6:30 pm. It was windy when they started for summit, quite cold. Bad snow conditions, very dangerous in the traverse.

Oxygen: Taken and used by Valloton and Sherpa from C3 to summit and down to C3.

Fixed rope: Changba fixed some rope in the traverse.

Sherpa:
Changba Sherpa