원정 개요

BC at Tseram 4 days for porters from normal BC
Normal BC at normal site
C1 at normal site
C2 at normal site.

Had to make route to normal BC (BC3) in deep snow and normal BC was actually third BC for this team; all porters had left expedition at Tseram but 2 Tibetans helped carry to normal BC. Very strong winds non-stop night and day everyday above 6500m during climb. This why reached early 7200m in clear sunny weather. Lost C2 on way to normal BC 2 tents and never found them (this on glacier at 4900m = "glacier BC") about 25th Feb and at normal BC, 2 tents destroyed. On 9 Feb Lwow ascended on hands and knees in terrible winds and had to retreat to BC for rest. Then came heavy snowfall again. Fixed 250m ropes only in short section to C1 and later not used. Reached 7200m without fixed ropes.

Lwow - 10 March 89

17 Dec 88 - KTM -> by truck
19 Dec - Dhankuta -> Basantpur
20 Dec - Basantapur
25 Dec - Hellok
29 Dec - Hellok
02 Jan 89 - Torontan
07 Jan - Tseram
08 Jan - Tseram
20 Jan - BC, our third BC
01 Feb - C1 - 6200m (Lwow, Jakubowski)
08 Feb - C2 - 6900m (Lwow, Jakubowski)
09 Feb - C2 - 7200m
14 Feb - snow, 30 cm in snowfall lost C2 and deposit at 7200m for
for fully stocked C3.
19 Feb - snow 70 cm
22 Feb - C1 (Lwow, Pankiewicz, Pichlak)
26 Feb - all people in the BC (Tseram) arriving Russian expedition
8 members and sirdar and 30 porters
01 Mar - left Tseram
08 Mar - KTM again


Rutkiewicz - 24 Feb 89

Arrived BC 20 Jan 5600m after 6 weeks aprproach march. Had first BC at about 10 Jan 3870m in forest at Sera and only 2 porters carrying loads beyond this. Left expedition 10 Feb. Made
C1 6200m
C2 6900m
and reached 7150m when she left.