원정 개요

Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu team led by Robert Smith never left Lhasa as the wife of Roland Smith (client) broke her ankle in Lhasa and they all came back to Kathmandu. They never even reached BC. Rob Smith then joined the AC expedition on Manaslu.


Liliya Ianovskaia report:

CBC 07/09 4900m
IC 08/09 5300m
ABC 09/09 5700m
C1 14/09 6400m
C2 24/09 7100m
Smt 25/09 by Ianovskaia and Nurbu [Funuru].

Summit push started from C2 at 1 am on 25 Sept, they got to the top at 12 noon and stayed on summit about 5 minutes. They returned C2 at 5 pm. Next day 26 Sept went down to ABC. The summit push day was cloudy, fresh snow and very poor visibility all the way up to summit. They saw some flags on the summit. On their way up met some members of IMG coming down. They met the Austrian woman (SST) without supplementary oxygen before 20-25 minutes from the summit. The weather during the expedition period all the time snowing. Left ABC on 28 Sept.

Oxygen: C2 to Summit, Sherpa the same

Ianovskaia was a Satori Adventure client of HG permit.


Bill Crouse-Tanja Kober report:

ABC 09/09 5460m
C1 17/09 5695m
C2 25/09 6449m
Smt 26/09 by Crouse, Kober and Sherpas at 6 am (NST).

Left C2 at 11:40 pm on the 24th Sept. Conditions: new snow, about 30cm. Clear visibility, no wind. Summited at 6 am, stayed 30 minutes. Descent: sunny, clear, got to C1 and stayed the night. Left for ABC on 27th Sept at 8:00 am, back to ABC on at 11:30 am. Left ABC on 28th Sept.

Oxygen: Used on summit day to C2.

Sherpas:
Lakpa Wangchu, lower Pangboche, 28 yrs
Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Khumjung, about 30 yrs


Jean-Luc Bremond report:

CBC 07/09 4900m
ABC 09/09 5600m
C1 14/09 6400m
C2 24/09 7200m
Smt 25/09 by Bremnod 12:17 pm (10:02 am NST).

2 Swiss: Bill (7 times Everest summiter) and Tanja. Used 3 oxygen bottles on summit day (summit in the night of 25 to 26).

1 Canadian: Lily, from Belorussia, living in Toronto. Used 2 oxygen bottles on summit day. Summit on 25 Sept before Bremond (she passed him in the slopes after the Yellow Band) in the morning.

Summit schedule:

23 Sept: ABC-C1
24 Sept: C1-C2
25 Sept: C2-summit.

Started at midnight. Trail not so good, with unconsolidated snow in the tracks due to descent of summiters. Once topping the summit plateau, his Sherpa less motivated suggested to stop, but Bremond demanded him to continue. Both without oxygen summited at 12:17 (CST). Bad weather (snowing) came as they were abseiling in the Yellow Bband. Reached C2 at 5 pm. Both tired after 17h go back. Shared the night in the same tent with Lily and her Sherpa (Nurbu Sherpa), quite inconfortable.

26 Sept: C2-ABC.
Left ABC on 28 Sept for Chinese BC, sleeping at Tingri.

Bremond had no training before coming to Nepal, hard physically for him. Harder for him than Manaslu in 2015 where he could enjoy more than 2 hours on top. This season had bad weather most of time during the expedition, as if monsoon hadn't finished. Sole summit window for the 25-26 Sept (most of summiters on 25 Sept). Summit conditions not good.

According to Bremond 3 members made it without oxygen (not counting hired here) this season: him, 1 Austrian female climber (success at her 5th attempt; was the only one to sleep at 7500m under the Yellow Yand), and one German who skied down (1 French member in his team, who made it with oxygen). All summits on 25 Sept.

Oxygen: not taken, not used.

Sherpas:
Pasang X Sherpa, working for HG.